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 ADVANCED
Pentapitch Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cool Your Jets S 
Dike from Hell T 
Endless Torment T 
Flashdance T,TR 
Ginseng T 
Japanese Terraces T 
Lesbian Seagulls S 
Littlefoot T 
Loch Ness Monster T,TR 
Neuromancer S 
Nubbins Direct T 
Nubbins to Nowhere T 
Pearls Before Swine S 
Pentapitch T 
Pudgy Gumbies T 
Sasquatch T 
Tormented Lesbian, The T 

Nubbins Direct 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Gary Taylor, Pat Contor 1989
Page Views: 923
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Best start is off of the anchors at the base of Sasquatch. Work left a bit and then climb the thin crack with the tree (small) at the base of it. Work this crack until you get to the undercling flake, clip a bolt and start slabbing up and a bit left. Quality slabbing will get you to the top. A very nice route.

Protection 

3 bolts on this line. Slung tree for the anchor (Pentapitch's), and small gear for the initial crack. Could not find the pin from the book.


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By zoso
Mar 10, 2009

A great line that isn't anywhere near as continuous as, say, Kermit's. Still 10a, but with nice big holds between 10a moves. A lot less spooky now with the new hardware. The PG13 part is right b4 the anchor and isn't that bad as the holds are decent.