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YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Keith Anderson (Bolted by Tom Ramier)
Page Views: 2,908
Submitted By: ferrells on May 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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NSP, so named for the power required to do it, is the premier hard Red Wing route, and among the best of the harder routes in Minnesota. It starts with a short, easy sequence of crimps, and then the crux comes, brief and brutal.
Above the crux, work your way through easy and fun full pad crimps and jugs for twenty feet, slightly angling to the right. Because of the difficulty above and below, it can feel a bit odd to be on such easy terrain, but fret not: you are not off-route.
You will quickly find yourself on some big jugs with your feet not quite beneath you. Gain a rest that I didn't think really offered full recovery. Chalk a couple times, and just keep going.
The redpoint crux, is not as difficult as the lower crux, but it's still really fun. Make long moves between good holds, and clip the anchors from jugs. The perfect Red Wing route.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 14, 2011
By Ian Harmon
From: Minneapolis, MN
May 25, 2006

I'm pretty sure this is the route where the current rating is unknown, because one of the crux holds broke off.
By Scott Hahn
Jun 7, 2006
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

I know of at least 4 ascents since the hold broke. For me it was solid 13d. Others it may have felt easier or harder. I've heard 13c and 13d. Either way it was one of my favorite routes I ever did at Red Wing.
By ferrells
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

Yeah, I think Andy Raether wanted to rename it after being the first to climb post-hold-break. Something like Pure Power, or something. Anyway, everyone still calls it NSP, and yeah, it's been done a bunch since then. Best route at Red Wing!
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

located just around the corner from jumpstart, in between relentless (11a crack) and paul's boutique (5.13 blunt arete).
By Cory Luke
From: Sauk Rapids, MN
Oct 31, 2010

Went back yesterday for my redpoint accent, but when I reached for the crux hold, it wasn't there. Good luck to anyone who tries it now.
By AntVicino
Nov 1, 2010

Cory, the crux hold broke off a couple days ago.. It has been glued back on and is as good as new...Get back on there and crush that thing!
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 2, 2010
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

man, gluing rocks together....when you stop and think about the stuff we do to climb rocks, you realize this is all pretty ridiculous. i love it all the same.
By Oklobzija
Nov 2, 2010
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Did anyone try it without the hold?
By Cory Luke
From: Sauk Rapids, MN
Nov 8, 2010

I gave it try without the hold, but I'm way too short to reach anything else that might make it work without.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 8, 2010
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

i heard from a reputable source that the hold in question may have originally been a chipped/manufactured hold. does this change anything? would not gluing the hold back on return it to its "natural" state? am i just wasting my breath?
By ferrells
Nov 9, 2010
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a

I can't say for sure, but I don't think there were any manufactured, added, or chipped holds on it when I did it in 2006. I never saw any glue, or drill marks, or chiseled edges. That hold you gaston with the right hand, at the crux, looked natural to me.
If something has been chipped, or a non-native rock glued on, especially since 2006, I would be surprised.
By Richard C
Nov 24, 2010

The crux hold has never been chipped or drilled it is all natural... but... it has been glued back on twice now... the route is close to unclimbable without the hold in question.
By AntVicino
Dec 2, 2010

I am inclined to believe your source, Randy. He is very credible and I put alot of stock in his opinion. As someone who was climbing at Red Wing when this line was first bolted and subsequently chipped, I would take him at his word.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Dec 2, 2010
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

i feel like a dreeb giving this rating, but after consulting with nic (who did nsp second go), him and i decided that nsp is much more closer to 13a than 13+. hard 11 climbing with one 5.13/v7 move does not equal 13+.
By Oklobzija
Feb 14, 2011
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

To clarify I did this route in 2.25 go's. I climbed thru the crux on my 2nd go but messed the sequence up and had to take.

I think it is a V6 or V7 to 5.10 climbing and when compared to its shorter brother Genetic Control at T-falls so for me it could only be 13a.

I would also like to add that the bolt above the Jugs (4th?) is partially exposed. The rock below the bolt has fractured and broken away. I do not have the ability so I am asking someone to replace it.
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