Noxious Fumes  M2-3 Steep Snow R

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Type:  Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 1500 feet, Grade III Consensus:  M2-3 [details] FA:  Season:  fall/spring Submitted By:  Taylor-B. on Oct 9, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The route is in red.

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Description 

This route could have some potential ice and mixed climbing in it. I climbed and skied this route in the huge snowfall/windy winter of '10/'11. There were only two pitches of mixed climbing, and the rest was steep snow. The first pitch we encountered had a manky anchor and marginal protection.

Location 

Take CO Hwy 9 up Hoosier Pass to County Rd 850. County Rd 850 takes you along the south side of Quandary Peak up to Blue Lakes. Take a right off of County Rd 850 onto County Rd 851 takes you around the north side of Quandary up McCullough Gulch. In the winter, County Rd 851 is closed due to snow and adds on many miles but not that much vertical to the approach. Follow the same directions as for Claim Jumper, at the beaver ponds hike west up towards the large rock glacier terminal moraine. From upper parking lot to base is approximately 1.5-2 hours. You can descend down the standard east ridge.

Protection 

Small rock rack with some pins and a ice screw. There are a few fixed anchors made from some home-made pitons.

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BETA PHOTO: Noxious Fumes on 5/12 (lean snow year), with lots ...