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Really fun climb up six pitches with all sizes of cracks. Feels sand bagged because it requires many techniques but 11a is fair.
P1: Short, funky but fun corner up to a ledge with a tree.
P2: Wonder up next to or in a chimney until it pinches to fingers and ends at a white triangle with webbing on it.
P3: Splitter crack ranging from squeeze to fingers up to a tree.
P4: Kind of confusing. Trend up and right to a crack, then back left, then up and right again to a right facing corner, then up to a pretty big tree.
P5: Right curving open book/corner into arching finger crack. Ends at two OLD bolts. Crux
P6: Up and left a bit to meet with and finish on the awesome splitter you can see from the road. End at the two OLD rap bolts.
Descend with one 70m or two 60m ropes. Two old bolted anchors and trees/blocks for the rest. Bring webbing.
After crossing the river before Zumwalt Meadow take the dirt road west along the north side of the river to the NPS stables and park on the side of the road (you can see the splitter cracks of the upper pitches from here). The cliff is divided by a large gully, scramble up talus and large blocks to the buttress on the right side of the gully. Begin in a corner with a wide crack and tree at the top (see pictures)
A few small cams. At least triples from 1-3". One each 4, 5 and 6".
The first pitch
BETA PHOTO: The cliff from down by the road
BETA PHOTO: Follows the sunlit buttress up the middle of the p...
Fun easy fingers at the top of the third pitch