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Nowhere To Run 
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Nowhere To Run 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, 6 pitches, 700', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: E.C. Joe, Barry Fowlie, Bill McConachie May 1986
Season: When the road is open
Page Views: 142
Submitted By: limpingcrab on Jan 3, 2014
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BETA PHOTO: The upper pitches from the approach

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Description 

Really fun climb up six pitches with all sizes of cracks. Feels sand bagged because it requires many techniques but 11a is fair.

P1: Short, funky but fun corner up to a ledge with a tree.

P2: Wonder up next to or in a chimney until it pinches to fingers and ends at a white triangle with webbing on it.

P3: Splitter crack ranging from squeeze to fingers up to a tree.

P4: Kind of confusing. Trend up and right to a crack, then back left, then up and right again to a right facing corner, then up to a pretty big tree.

P5: Right curving open book/corner into arching finger crack. Ends at two OLD bolts. Crux

P6: Up and left a bit to meet with and finish on the awesome splitter you can see from the road. End at the two OLD rap bolts.

Descend with one 70m or two 60m ropes. Two old bolted anchors and trees/blocks for the rest. Bring webbing.


Location 

After crossing the river before Zumwalt Meadow take the dirt road west along the north side of the river to the NPS stables and park on the side of the road (you can see the splitter cracks of the upper pitches from here). The cliff is divided by a large gully, scramble up talus and large blocks to the buttress on the right side of the gully. Begin in a corner with a wide crack and tree at the top (see pictures)


Protection 

A few small cams. At least triples from 1-3". One each 4, 5 and 6".



Photos of Nowhere To Run Slideshow Add Photo
The first pitch
The first pitch
The cliff from down by the road
BETA PHOTO: The cliff from down by the road
Follows the sunlit buttress up the middle of the photo.
BETA PHOTO: Follows the sunlit buttress up the middle of the p...
Fun easy fingers at the top of the third pitch
Fun easy fingers at the top of the third pitch
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