Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
North Mountain
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Nowhere To Run T 
Spider, The T 
Wish You Were Here T 
Unsorted Routes:

Nowhere To Run 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 700', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: E.C. Joe, Barry Fowlie, Bill McConachie May 1986
Season: When the road is open
Page Views: 750
Submitted By: limpingcrab on Jan 3, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The first pitch

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Really fun climb up six pitches with all sizes of cracks. Feels sand bagged on the easier pitches because they require many techniques but the grades are fair.

P1: Short, funky but fun corner up to a ledge with a tree.

P2: Wonder up next to or in a chimney until it pinches to fingers and ends at a white triangle with webbing on it.

P3: Splitter crack ranging from squeeze to fingers up to a tree.

P4: Kind of confusing. Trend up and right to a crack, then back left, then up and right again to a right facing corner, then up to a pretty big tree.

P5: Right curving open book/corner into arching finger crack. Ends at two OLD bolts. Crux

P6: Up and left a bit to meet with and finish on the awesome splitter you can see from the road. End at the two OLD rap bolts.

Descend with one 70m or two 60m ropes. Two old bolted anchors and trees/blocks for the rest. Bring webbing.

Location 

After crossing the river before Zumwalt Meadow take the dirt road west along the north side of the river to the NPS stables and park on the side of the road (you can see the splitter cracks of the upper pitches from here). The cliff is divided by a large gully, scramble up talus and large blocks to the buttress on the right side of the gully. Begin in a corner with a wide crack and tree at the top (see pictures)

Protection 

A few small cams. At least triples from 1-3". One each 4, 5 and 6".


Photos of Nowhere To Run Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun easy fingers at the top of the third pitch
Fun easy fingers at the top of the third pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: end of curx pitch.. corner of the first half can b...
end of curx pitch.. corner of the first half can b...
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper pitches from the approach
BETA PHOTO: The upper pitches from the approach
Rock Climbing Photo: The cliff from down by the road
BETA PHOTO: The cliff from down by the road
Rock Climbing Photo: Follows the sunlit buttress up the middle of the p...
BETA PHOTO: Follows the sunlit buttress up the middle of the p...
Rock Climbing Photo: Last pitch.. topo says a lot of offwidth, and it l...
Last pitch.. topo says a lot of offwidth, and it l...

Comments on Nowhere To Run Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
5 days ago

Top rap anchors have been replaced. Take some cord for the rest of the raps. Not sure if the last pitch could be rapped with a 70m..

To find it. Park near the stables (was told we can't park at the stables) and hike to the buttress. Once you get to the toe, head up and left just a bit and then cut back right and scramble up to the dirty first pitch.

On the confusing 4th pitch, it's obvious off the belay but it gets... confusing.

No need for 6 x #1's and whatever else the guide recommends. Doubles to #2 is fine. 1 extra .75 and #1 will be nice though. Singles to #6 was nice but not totally necessary. Placed them mostly because I had 'em. If anything, bring a 6 for the 3rd pitch.

Good route, but a little chossy down low. Crux pitch is awesome. First half of it reminded me of New Dimensions. Last pitch is cherry on top, sweetness.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!