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 ADVANCED
The Amphitheater
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2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner 
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Direct to top of Second Pinnacle  
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First Pinnacle SE Face 
Inset, The 
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Macropsychotic 
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Now and Zen 
Outside East Face 
P.S. I'm Blonde 
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Red Gully, The 
Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane 
Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) 
Second Pinnacle East Face 
Second Pinnacle South Face 
Shortcut 
Siberian North Face 
Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] 
South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) 
South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) 
South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) 
Southeast Arete (1st pinnacle) 
Standard Inside East Face 
T-Zero West Face 
Tyrolean Traverse 
West Bench Dihedral 
West Face (of T-Zero) 

Now and Zen 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: S. Ilg & R. Rossiter, '88
Page Views: 615
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 30, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    A strange and interesting climb, and pretty good for the venue, but a little too short.

    Approach Via the ampetheatre trail or the 'express trail' and get yourself to the Northwest side of the outside of the ampetheatre. You may locate the bolted line "Red Wall" first, then work your way West (right) along the north facing features to the Ginseng Pillar, the last significant feature before going to the 3rd Pinacle ridge.

    The Ginseng Pillar has 2 lines that have bolts, ont he left is Siberian North Face, on the Right is Now and Zen. Both are overgraded as published and are more like 5.10a.

    Now and Zen actually starts on the nice west-side-slab of the NW arete of the Ginsing Pilalr, protecting in a few horizontals before turning the corner left onto the north face and clipping a bolt, then heading up the wall above said bolt. The climbing is mostly solid and fun. Getting to the botl may be heady, but careful protection of the horizontal before the move (large cams) will help. Watch for loose flakes in the crack and protect where it is good.

    Scramble off to the East and down a good chimney/gully.


    Protection 

    A set of cams to 4" and a draw for the lone bolt. Heady at your limit, but not dangerous if you know how to place good gear in a horizontal. THe bolt protects the crux.



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