Novitiate's Nightmare 5.9
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311.
Here's a map:
| 2009 Closure Map
Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
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This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Novitiate's Nightmare is a variation of The Farce, with a direct start and finish. To start, begin 15' above the groove, in the alcove below the large boulder. You can see the crack running all the way from the base to the top of lower buttress, splitting a 3' roof 3/4 of the way up. There is a .8 move just above the ground, (listed as the 5.6 direct start to the Farce in the guide) and pulling the roof is a bouldery .9. Both moves are well protected, and the rest of the route is much easier.
The roof is a fun move, and the route is worthwhile if you're trying to get up to Main wall and surrealistic and the groove have traffic.
You can do this in one long pitch with a 60m rope.
Location Just right of The Groove if you're facing the rock, in the alcove formed by the rock and the large boulder.
Protection standard rack, to #3 camalot.
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