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Lower Buttress
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A Boy and His ArÍte 
Beer Can Direct 
Black Magic 
Black Opal 
Black Pyre 
Blue Wind 
Crown Royal 
For Real Crack 
Groove, The 
Hemorroids in Flight 
Novitiate's Nightmare 
Pillar of Society 
Surrealistic Pillar 
Surrealistic Pillar Direct 
Wild Turkey 

Novitiate's Nightmare 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 336
Submitted By: caughtinside on Nov 21, 2006
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Novitiate's Nightmare is a variation of The Farce, with a direct start and finish. To start, begin 15' above the groove, in the alcove below the large boulder. You can see the crack running all the way from the base to the top of lower buttress, splitting a 3' roof 3/4 of the way up. There is a .8 move just above the ground, (listed as the 5.6 direct start to the Farce in the guide) and pulling the roof is a bouldery .9. Both moves are well protected, and the rest of the route is much easier.

The roof is a fun move, and the route is worthwhile if you're trying to get up to Main wall and surrealistic and the groove have traffic.

You can do this in one long pitch with a 60m rope.


Just right of The Groove if you're facing the rock, in the alcove formed by the rock and the large boulder.


standard rack, to #3 camalot.

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