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 ADVANCED
The Planet of the Apes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Damned Dirty Apes T,S 
Dr. Zaius T 
I Feel Lonely T 
Law Giver T 
Man Can Be Domesticated T,S 
Nova's Route S 
Simian Survival T,S 
To Hell With The Scarecrows T,S 

Nova's Route 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, Alpine, 2 pitches, 165'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA:  Pitch 1-Phyllis Suggett, Roy Suggett Pitch 2-Zac Warren and R. Suggett
New Route: Yes
Season: May - October
Page Views: 159
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Jul 11, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Blue is Nova's Route Yellow is Pitch II of Man Can...

Description 

PITCH I (9+): This long and sustained line climbs well and has great movement on a left hand arete. After clipping the third bolt move right into a chimney. Climb here until clipping the fourth bolt and then it is back to the arete and up. There are some spots with less than great rock or this would have more stars due to all the fun moves. Finish on a substantial ledge with shuts.

PITCH II (11d): Head left from the anchor at the end of the first pitch on an 8" ledge toward the arete. Clip the first of six bolts (runners and QDs) and hold on for this wild, wild ride! The moves between the first and second bolts on this pitch are the crux moves. Find a way around the arete and slightly up as you traverse into a right facing corner. Jug up onto a large platform atop an attached pillar. Continue clipping bolts as you move up and left to reach the chains. You may rap from here with TWO 60 meter ropes or lead on over "lose" rock (15 ft.) to top out.

Location 

Way right of Dr. Z. and just right of Man Can Be Domesticated but also just right and north of the talus field. Cross the talus field following the cairns and get on the dirt trail at the base of the cliff. Twenty feet up the trail bump on to a ledge at the base of a right facing dihedral and large off-width. Lean and stretch out to clip the first bolt prior to using the under cling to shoot for the arete.

Protection 

Take 8 or nine QDs and 4 shoulder length runners which will get you to a large ledge and shuts. Pitch two takes the same and ends at chains.


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By Kurt Howes
Sep 2, 2014

I only found a small section (a few moves) to be really enjoyable (the crux area up high). We rapped in one go with a nearly full 70 meter rope.
By Roy Suggett
Oct 9, 2014

When you climb well over 5.9 it is sometimes hard to remember and appreciate a good 9. The 5.9 first pitch was enjoyed by it's FA et. al. The much harder second pitch was enjoyed by another group.