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 ADVANCED
Lower Peanuts
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Guitar T,S 
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 
Black Pearl S 
Blows Against the Empire T 
Chaucer T 
Cornered, straight up variation T 
Criller AKA Dwayne and Craig's Exellent Adventures T,TR 
Dihedral T 
Do or Do Not T 
Double Cracks T 
Easy Off T 
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 
Faith, Hope and Charity T 
Fickle Finger of Eight T 
Forbidden Planet S 
Good Mourning T,TR 
Home Free T 
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 
Let's Jet S 
Narrow Gate, The T 
No Visible Means of Support T 
Nova T,TR 
Off The Cuff T 
Peanuts T 
Pretender, The T 
Right Escape T 
Sacred and the Profane, The S 
Scorpions T 
Shield, The T 
Sickle T 
Star Track T,TR 
Strata Outta Compton T 
Strolling T 
Tracer T 
Trouble And Strife T,TR 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 
Whiskey Gala T 
Wired T 
X-Wing T,TR 
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 
Your Basic Lieback T 

Nova 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mike Brooks, Chip Ruckgaber, 1980
Page Views: 293
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 1, 2002

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Another tick on Obscure Eldo route tour on Lower Peanuts. This is a neighbor of Home Free and Double Cracks.

Find the ledge to the base of Star Wars. This terrain is easy to the base here. This line starts right of Star Wars by perhaps 40 feet.

Find a double crack system. Start just right. Stem. Yard on top of a ledge. Here you face the crux. Not much pro here though. Step up and reach to a big flake. Find a series of improbable holds all just enough to keep it 5.7. Pro is certainly spartan at best. Lichen here tells a tale of less traffic than other sort-of-classic routes nearby like Star Wars and Home Free.

Perhaps a better option for those climbing in this range, TR this line with directional pro from the top of the first pitch of Double Cracks. There is a spot for a #1 camalot and this can be equalized with .75 camalot under the flake about 4 ft above.

Protection 

light rack, decent size gonads


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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 15, 2002
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

I "lead" this route a few years back... this consisted of soloing the route with a rack and rope tied on, then down-soloing the Double Cracks. It is just not protectable... or worth the effort.