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 ADVANCED
Lower Peanuts
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Guitar 
Aspenleaf Dihedral 
Black Pearl 
Blows Against the Empire 
Chaucer 
Cornered, straight up variation 
Dihedral 
Do or Do Not 
Double Cracks 
Easy Off 
Empire Strikes Back, The 
Faith, Hope and Charity 
Fickle Finger of Eight 
Forbidden Planet 
Home Free 
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) 
Just Another Girl's Climb 
Let's Jet 
Narrow Gate, The 
No Visible Means of Support 
Nova 
Off The Cuff 
Peanuts 
Pretender, The 
Right Escape 
Sacred and the Profane, The 
Scorpions 
Shield, The 
Sickle 
Star Track 
Strolling 
Tracer 
Trouble And Strife 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) 
Whiskey Gala 
Wired 
X-Wing 
Young, Blonde, and Easy 
Your Basic Lieback 

Nova 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b R

   
Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mike Brooks, Chip Ruckgaber, 1980
Page Views: 231
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 1, 2002
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Description 

Another tick on Obscure Eldo route tour on Lower Peanuts. This is a neighbor of Home Free and Double Cracks.

Find the ledge to the base of Star Wars. This terrain is easy to the base here. This line starts right of Star Wars by perhaps 40 feet.

Find a double crack system. Start just right. Stem. Yard on top of a ledge. Here you face the crux. Not much pro here though. Step up and reach to a big flake. Find a series of improbable holds all just enough to keep it 5.7. Pro is certainly spartan at best. Lichen here tells a tale of less traffic than other sort-of-classic routes nearby like Star Wars and Home Free.

Perhaps a better option for those climbing in this range, TR this line with directional pro from the top of the first pitch of Double Cracks. There is a spot for a #1 camalot and this can be equalized with .75 camalot under the flake about 4 ft above.


Protection 

light rack, decent size gonads



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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 15, 2002
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R

I "lead" this route a few years back... this consisted of soloing the route with a rack and rope tied on, then down-soloing the Double Cracks. It is just not protectable... or worth the effort.