Nova  5.7 R

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Mike Brooks, Chip Ruckgaber, 1980 Submitted By:  Leo Paik on Jul 1, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Another tick on Obscure Eldo route tour on Lower Peanuts. This is a neighbor of Home Free and Double Cracks.

Find the ledge to the base of Star Wars. This terrain is easy to the base here. This line starts right of Star Wars by perhaps 40 feet.

Find a double crack system. Start just right. Stem. Yard on top of a ledge. Here you face the crux. Not much pro here though. Step up and reach to a big flake. Find a series of improbable holds all just enough to keep it 5.7. Pro is certainly spartan at best. Lichen here tells a tale of less traffic than other sort-of-classic routes nearby like Star Wars and Home Free.

Perhaps a better option for those climbing in this range, TR this line with directional pro from the top of the first pitch of Double Cracks. There is a spot for a #1 camalot and this can be equalized with .75 camalot under the flake about 4 ft above.

Protection 

light rack, decent size gonads