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Nouveau Reach aka Jeff's Third Climb aka Photo Art 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jeff Brown,1988, on gear? Alan Nelson, Spring 2001?
Page Views: 807
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Mike Keegan, pulling through the crux.

Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

First bolted line left of Sunset Arete and one of four new lines in this area, this un-named Alan Nelson route begs the question: "Why didn't we do this before?" Fire up a thin tips-seam for four bolts just adjacent to Sunset Arete. Pull into a corner system for a casual cruise to the top. The real crux lies in finding some feet for the seam at the start. I thought that a good strong lay back using soft slippers gave sufficient friction to make this not harder than 5.11b, perhaps easier if you are tall. There may be some edges on the left, but gag, where? Fine addition by Das Routemeister. Good stone, well protected, fun moves. All we need are the babes (this part was so much easier previously???).

Protection 

QDs only. This 55 foot route needs 8 to 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.


Comments on Nouveau Reach aka Jeff's Third Climb aka Photo Art Add Comment
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By Jim Walsh
Apr 29, 2006

Very short crux with a perfect hole for your left big toe and a killer one-finger jam for the middle finger of your right hand. Fun.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Jul 12, 2008

David, why on Earth would you quote Hubbel's guide as some kind of authority? Hubbel has always named cracks that were never climbed. His first book to the Platte was called The Brown Book of Lies. No FA parties are listed usually.

Please remove your comments about Alan. He died three months ago. You're presenting yourself as a guy who likes to kick people when they're down.
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 13, 2008

Not to take sides on the issue, but for historical accuracy, this was actually first done by Jeff Brown in 1988 and called Jeff's Third Climb. If you can manage to find a copy, you can refer to Berk's 1990 guidebook to Table Mountain called "You Are Welcome to Walk: Free Climbs of North Table Mountain, Colorado".
By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 7, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Fun route, great moves, upper part backs off considerably.