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Noth'N But a Good Time
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British R
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in The Tan Buttresses
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[Redacted] T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Anniversary Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Astro Goat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 |
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Black and Tan Towers, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Damn it Feels Good to be a Hamsta T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dog Fight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fallen Angel T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Goat Food T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Hard to Say T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hoag-Fisher T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lazy Sunday Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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MOAC Memorial Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Musafar's Home Cookin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Noth'N But a Good Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Pin Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Space Miser T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Work-Life Balance T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Glen Griscom and Josh Thompson, July 2008 |
| Page Views: | 766 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | J. Thompson on Aug 10, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Pitch 1: Begin up the obvious line. Some creative movement up a system of cracks and corners will lead you to a face. Place some small stoppers in a pegmatite seam. Pull through the face section and gain a huge ledge. Belay at a fixed pin (LA) at a stance directly below a 10 foot thin hands crack in golden rock. 5.10a/b R, 120 feet.
Pitch 2: Climb aforementioned crack directly above the belay. Powerful liebacking will get you through this section. Be sure to place some gear in this crack. At the top of the lieback, step left into the clean cut, grayish corners. Here you will find some thin gear. Stem your way up these corners until you can step *slightly* left into another crack system. Climb this up and into a short (20ft) broken section. At the top of this broken section, you will gain a big, flat ledge, traverse approximately 20 feet right and belay. 5.10a/b R-, 100 feet.
Pitch 3: Climb the obvious dihedral that makes up the obvious right side of the ledge. Start with a short bit of chimneying that leads to a hand and fist crack. Follow this to the obvious big ledge. Belay at the base of a short face/bulge directly below a left-facing dihedral above. 5.8, 70 feet.
Pitch 4: Climb the face directly above the belay, leading to a small roof/bulge. Creative stemming and face moves. I promise there is gear! You'll have to look for it and trust that it's going to be there. Once on top of this section there is a small ledge to regroup on. Next climb up the obvious left-facing, flared dihedral. There is a crack on the left hand wall to aid in upward progress. At the top of the dihedral, there is a small ledge on the right, regroup again, then step back left and pull through a short section gaining yet another large ledge. Head back and to the right a bit and belay to the right of the obvious, loose chimney. 5.10+, 70 feet.
Pitch 5: Climb the loose chimney to the top. This was soloed on the first ascent. 5.4, 60 feet.
Descend by casually walking southwest back towards the Black Wall.
Pitch 2: Climb aforementioned crack directly above the belay. Powerful liebacking will get you through this section. Be sure to place some gear in this crack. At the top of the lieback, step left into the clean cut, grayish corners. Here you will find some thin gear. Stem your way up these corners until you can step *slightly* left into another crack system. Climb this up and into a short (20ft) broken section. At the top of this broken section, you will gain a big, flat ledge, traverse approximately 20 feet right and belay. 5.10a/b R-, 100 feet.
Pitch 3: Climb the obvious dihedral that makes up the obvious right side of the ledge. Start with a short bit of chimneying that leads to a hand and fist crack. Follow this to the obvious big ledge. Belay at the base of a short face/bulge directly below a left-facing dihedral above. 5.8, 70 feet.
Pitch 4: Climb the face directly above the belay, leading to a small roof/bulge. Creative stemming and face moves. I promise there is gear! You'll have to look for it and trust that it's going to be there. Once on top of this section there is a small ledge to regroup on. Next climb up the obvious left-facing, flared dihedral. There is a crack on the left hand wall to aid in upward progress. At the top of the dihedral, there is a small ledge on the right, regroup again, then step back left and pull through a short section gaining yet another large ledge. Head back and to the right a bit and belay to the right of the obvious, loose chimney. 5.10+, 70 feet.
Pitch 5: Climb the loose chimney to the top. This was soloed on the first ascent. 5.4, 60 feet.
Descend by casually walking southwest back towards the Black Wall.
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