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Notch Peak

Select Route:
Appetite for Destruction T 
Book of Saturday T,S 
Further On Up The Road T 
La Fin du Monde T 
Western Hardman T 

Notch Peak  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,500'
Location: 39.14333, -113.40967 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 91,360
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Duncan on Nov 11, 2006
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Notch Peak (This is the correct canyon to hike to ...

Description 

12 Pitch, Grade IV, 5.11 limestone monster. Adventure climbing in remote canyon. Rockfall danger; requires discretion in gear placement. All day fun. Most of the route is easy to find; 9 out of 10 rap down in the dark.

Notch Peak canyon (no name on USGS topos) West side of Sawtooth Mountain, House Mountain Range, West desert, Utah

Getting There 

45 minutes west of Delta, UT. Highway 6/50.
Take Notch Peak loop on WEST side of Sawtooth mountain. This dirt road also goes to Painter Springs. Turn right,towards mountain at an abandoned gravel pit. The entire region looks like a gravel pit. Identify the correct pit by a road turning left, back to the highway, just after you pass your road toward the mountain.
Sedans can make it up this road until the big squarish boulder. 4WD vehicles can drop into the riverbed (dry) just before the boulder.
Don't hike the canyon at the end of this road. Notch Peak canyon has an large and obvious dry riverbed all across it. The correct canyon is 200 Meters south.

Climbing Season



Weather station 28.7 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Notch Peak:
La Fin du Monde   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Grade III   
Book of Saturday   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, Sport, 12 pitches, 1500'   
Western Hardman   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 12 pitches   
Appetite for Destruction   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Trad, Grade IV   
Browse More Classics in Notch Peak

Featured Route For Notch Peak
lower North face of Notch peak,seen from the approach.  Appetite for Destruction on left. Western Hardman on right

Appetite for Destruction 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a  UT : House Range : Notch Peak
This route is located on the lower face of Notch Peak. It was put up in pure ground up style. It offers a challenge for climbers with experience on loose mountain routes. It is similar to big routes in the Canadian Rockies, or less traveled routes in the Italian Dolomites... serious and objectively hazardous. When combined with either BOS or La Fin to the summit of Notch, it yields a real grade V. Even if you are usually fast, bring your headlamp.Be aware that this route is somewhat more serio...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Notch Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Notch peak looms above the granite slabs
Notch peak looms above the granite slabs
Notch Peak from the west.
Notch Peak from the west.
Double rainbow over the Sevier Lake bed at sunset.
Double rainbow over the Sevier Lake bed at sunset.
Notch Peak.
Notch Peak.
West face of Notch Peak
West face of Notch Peak
Notch Peak rises above the pink granite of Sawtooth Canyon.
Notch Peak rises above the pink granite of Sawtoot...
The Tombstone, Sawtooth Cyn.--West Desert  "Way harder than it looks--but just as good as it looks."
The Tombstone, Sawtooth Cyn.--West Desert "Way ha...
North face as seen from the top of Western Hardman
North face as seen from the top of Western Hardman
Notch Peak.
Notch Peak.
Moon and sunrise in the Utah's west desert
Moon and sunrise in the Utah's west desert
The Tombstone at the mouth of Sawtooth Canyon.
The Tombstone at the mouth of Sawtooth Canyon.
Approach map to Sawtooth Canyon and Notch Peak: <br />Pull off highway 6/50 onto dark gravel road around mile marker 43.  This road converges with a dirt road called the Tule Valley Road.  This road leads to Painter Springs.  From the highway, drive approximately 6.5 miles to a four-way intersection.  Turn right onto the rough road and drive for about two miles and park in a clearing just before the streambed.  If you brought a high-clearance vehicle with four-wheel drive that you don't mind scratching up, you can drive up the wash for another half mile to the wilderness study area sign.
BETA PHOTO: Approach map to Sawtooth Canyon and Notch Peak:
Pu...
upper section of Notch seen from the top of Appetite for Destruction
BETA PHOTO: upper section of Notch seen from the top of Appeti...
beautiful limestone just south of notch peak. Routes like this are everywhere.
beautiful limestone just south of notch peak. Rout...
Interesting limestone arch visible across the notch from the approach to the upper wall.
Interesting limestone arch visible across the notc...
Notch Peak at sunset.
Notch Peak at sunset.
Looking back at the approach. Still at least 30 minutes from the base of the upper cliff face.
Looking back at the approach. Still at least 30 mi...
Looking down Optimizer (5.11b/c) on the Tombstone.
Looking down Optimizer (5.11b/c) on the Tombstone....
View from the top looking south toward <em><a href='/v/ibex/105916340'>Ibex</a></em>.
View from the top looking south toward [[10591...

Comments on Notch Peak Add Comment
Show which comments
By Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
Nov 11, 2006
Please remember to bring a HELMET regardless. A HEADLAMP (Check the batteries I made that mistake once), and plan according to your abilities. It's a great climb but you should prepare for a full day. Hike to the climb before sunrise and climb till dark. Late July the sun is only on the wall in the early morning!
By James Garrett
Nov 19, 2006
Western Hardman is my favorite route on Notch Peak. Kudos to Aaron and CJ. I still think our bivy just out of the steam bed below the route was the way to go and such great camping, as well! I WOULD have liked to see more bolts up high! Strange if you rap drilled the upper ones, they were the hardest to protect in my book...not the last one, but the one before that.
Still thanks for a great line and whoever disses Notch Peak climbing just hasn't climbed newer lines on limestone before...what do you think the Marmolada was like in 1938? You guys need to just stay on your 30m sport crags and quit bitching....
Cheers
By Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
Jan 26, 2007
James,
Aaron and I went back and added about 6 bolts, one on the traverse to pitch 11 to make that safer, also, I believe one went up on pitch 11 to help direct the correct climbing path and as well help protect it. Another on pitch 10, and on 9, two others went up somewhere, hopefully on route as it was getting really dark by thenů kidding!
By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Nov 29, 2007
The amount of climbable rock in this vicinity is mind blowing. There is another canyon like Sawtooth a few miles north in the House Range which looks to contain several BIG domes/crags.
By Chasem
Mar 23, 2010
Anybody know where I can get beta for Empty Sky (aka NW Ridge)?
By ddriver
From: SLC
May 29, 2012
The old rope ladder (long gone) at the step on the approach to the North Face has been replaced with a more permanent installation. First round of work was May 28, finished June 3. You may want to harness up at the base of the step so you can daisy in and make the upper transition safely, but the June 3 work probably negates that need. Two fixed raps were also replaced, the upper also used as a batman. Note that the fixed line just above the step is in the bowl to looker's left, not the main drainage.

Updated 4 June.
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jun 23, 2013
Just fyi, the turnoff road up to the canyons is 6.6 miles from highway 6. The gravel pit is not super obvious to spot at night, so the mileage helps. Also, another marker is the road coming in from the left to make a 3 way junction at the correct turnoff. While not mandatory, (we made it up in our Hyundai elantra) a high clearance vehicle is really nice to have, though it is only a mile or two.
By jzp
From: Pleasant Grove
Sep 25, 2013
39.157,-113.453 is this the approximate location of the sedan parking?
By karl kvashay
From: cedar city, utah
Sep 30, 2013
Notch looks Awesome!! Just moved out to utah n this is on the radar. With all the loose rock, etc., im wondering how these routes were established. Any FA history/anectdotes y'all could share'd be appreciated. Has anyone done any ground up routes/attempts? please share