Notalotatalk 

Stout for 5.8, awkward, and the crack flares inward so gear is a bit tricky to place, though solid if you work at it. Not nearly as good as the other 5.8 on the buttress.

The hardest move is getting off the ground, although you can protect the initial moves by placing a piece before you start climbing. Good hand jamming technique is a must, and there is a second crux right below the roof. The route protects well with SLCDs and hexes. The anchor station is a nice, picnic table ledge.

This is a fun route, I thought the gear was fine, it is just a little short.

Nuts protect this better than cams; really irregular crack system.

Fun route, just a little short.

Also: a 2 bolt anchor has been added to a slab near the end of the route. I found it easier just to continue traversing off right to the tree/gully and belay from there. I don't really see the point of the newly added bolt anchors: you can't even rap from them since there are no quicklinks there.

Second best route on the wall after the 5.9 just to this routes left.

This climb would be a good intro to trad climbing in BCC imo. Take your time and practice sewing it up! Clean it, think about what you really need up there and do it again.