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Talk Buttress
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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 652
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on May 19, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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One final hand crack.


This is the climb that climbs the flake on the right side. It pops over the flake and then starts a nice rightward shuffle. The shuffle is a blast, as the crack is nice on the fingers.


Bring large hexes and medium nuts for the anchors. Also, bring medium to large gear for the climb with some runners.

Photos of Notalotatalk Slideshow Add Photo
Jamming up the crack.
Jamming up the crack.
Talk Buttress - Look Who's Talking on the left, No...
BETA PHOTO: Talk Buttress - Look Who's Talking on the left, No...
Sloppy seconds on Notalobbatalk.
Sloppy seconds on Notalobbatalk.

Comments on Notalotatalk Add Comment
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By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 7, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Stout for 5.8, awkward, and the crack flares inward so gear is a bit tricky to place, though solid if you work at it. Not nearly as good as the other 5.8 on the buttress.
By Lee Gitlin
Oct 7, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The hardest move is getting off the ground, although you can protect the initial moves by placing a piece before you start climbing. Good hand jamming technique is a must, and there is a second crux right below the roof. The route protects well with SLCDs and hexes. The anchor station is a nice, picnic table ledge.
By Cameron Charles
Jun 20, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a fun route, I thought the gear was fine, it is just a little short.
By Pete Spri
Jun 9, 2010

Nuts protect this better than cams; really irregular crack system.

Fun route, just a little short.

Also: a 2 bolt anchor has been added to a slab near the end of the route. I found it easier just to continue traversing off right to the tree/gully and belay from there. I don't really see the point of the newly added bolt anchors: you can't even rap from them since there are no quicklinks there.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 2, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Second best route on the wall after the 5.9 just to this routes left.
By Greg Z
From: Sandy, UT
Jul 7, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This climb would be a good intro to trad climbing in BCC imo. Take your time and practice sewing it up! Clean it, think about what you really need up there and do it again.
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