Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Sharp
Select Route:
Not So Sharp T 
Sharp T 

Not So Sharp 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: John Gunnels & Greg Coulter - June, 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 136
Submitted By: John Gunnels on May 3, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This variation to Sharp may have been done in the past, but none of the long time Needles climbers I have contacted thought so. That being said:

Begin in the low angle trough on the east side of the Spire 1 ridge. Work your way up with very good protection until you feel like you're entering another "Conn Chimney". Exit the left wall utilizing a series of fingerlocks and face moves. Fifteen feet below the saddle, you will discover a very large, loose block. Not to worry... EXCELLENT placements are available just before and just after this surprise. Keep your head, pull through these crux moves and you'll be standing on the saddle. Step around the the exposed west face and cruise to the tiny summit of Sharp. Double rope rap down the WEST face.

Location 

Approach via the Spire 1/2 Gully. Either bushwhack your way UP thru acres of beetle kill, or hike DOWN from the Spire 1/2 notch. The beginning of the route is visible from "God's Own Drunk" on Khayyam Spire.

Protection 

C4's #.3 thru #2. BD Stoppers #3 thru #9. 8 or 10 24" runners. Take spare webbing and inspect anchors before you rap.


Comments on Not So Sharp Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -