Not So Moderate 5.11c R
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Joseph Smith |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Joseph Smith on Jan 31, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: Joseph Smith fishing in Brassies.
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Description This route is a fun top rope and a bold lead. Technical and powerful moves get you off the ground and into the fun face section before the crux traverse. Fun steep climbing gets you to the anchor. As always in Red Rock pull down not out. Don't blow it on lead...!!
Location The route starts @15 left of Pending Disaster at a flare with small pro. Move up and right using seam for pro. Move left at dark sloppy traverse. Then straight up to the anchors. Rappel from Pending Disasters' anchor.
Protection Brass, med stoppers, small cams(00-.5 bd), and an optional #3-#4 bd. A few extendable runners. Rap/TR off of the Pending Disaster. Use a long extension to TR.
Nesting gear before the crux...
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Last real move, getting out of the pool!!
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| Comments on Not So Moderate |
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By Joseph Smith
From: moab
Jan 31, 2011
| I cleaned many blocks up high and a few down low. Everything seems solid at this point. One crimp is questionable above the slopper traverse. All in all it has seen good reviews by those who top roped it. It might only be .11b. No one else has stepped up to lead it yet though. Good luck, have fun, and be safe!! Only lead it if you are very confident!!! |
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 31, 2011
| Looks proud. |
By trundlebum
From: Henderson NV
Feb 1, 2011
| So Joe...
You couldn't help youself huh?
You just had to add a 100' deep section,
infested with sharks,
right in the middle of the wading pool.
I don't think this one will get a lot of lead traffic.
It's pretty 'Grit ee' ! |
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