Not So Easy Arch
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Jill shortly before the hail storm.
- ** this route starts 1 pitch up the wall above Main Gate and Charadras etc.
The main feature is a right angling arch/roof 220' off the ground, just down and left from Voodoo Child's crux pitch.
P1) From the ledge system at 120' (belay for Main Gate ,Charadras) follow a chickenheads left of 45' crack system above the ledge. Traverse right (across the crack) when comfortable and up more heads to the base of the arch. Climb the arch (many good stoppers etc) to its end to belay on chickenheads (and a 1" TCU in roof). (150', 5.5)
P2) Climb the steep section above belay then trend left (tying off c-heads) to an vertical area of heads and run rope to its end. Belay on chickenheads. (160-180', easy 5th).
P3) finish off to summit (<100', 4th class)
Combined with Charadras this is a fine easy summit route to get up Rap Rock.
Left of Black Quacker, the arch/roof feature is obvious
Stoppers and camming units to 3". Shoulder length runners for chickenheads.
By adrian korosec
Oct 29, 2010
Great climb with perfect protection.