Not One Of Us 

Interesting route history, Richard. Great job an a fantastic line. I think this route is one of the best for the grade, with classic moves and awesome position.

Sounds about par-for-the-course. As I recall, I had finished P1 and P2. Anna and I had gone through P3 a few days earlier with hangs to start and above, and I needed a ride to check the beta in comfort. As I also recall, Alan was not sweating bullets in the least, in fact it looked like a hike when he did it, a deceptive hike.

Great route, Richard.! Probably the best 12a in the canyon. You are right, the second pitch is the sweetest - awesome arete work. I have a question - I usually launch up into the arete using the crimps on the face gaining the arete half-way up. Is this correct?

MM - Sounds about right. My foggy memory may be a bit off here, but as I recall you run a couple of slab moves and just catch the arete when they run out (?).

Michael-- I did it today the same as it sounds you did-- traversing left to the arete while balanced on a right side pull fairly high up (after beginning with the face climbing you mention above the slab.) You end up with your chest pretty much on that 3rd (?) bolt, and your left foot on that one decent step right on the arete. I suppose you could attempt to haul straight up the arete from below, but that would require a bit more power.... As is, I enjoyed the moves and sequence coming in from the right. Cool (and airy) pitch! We had the same type curiosity onlookers pulled over off the road watching....

Probably the best route I've done in CCC. Every pitch is quality. Wishful thinking: take away the ledges and you'd have a world class 150' pitch.

A decent route, I wasn't a big fan but then again I don't really know shit about shit. I would [recommend] that if you are going to put in the effort then you should carry a second 60m rope for an [awesome] 170' rappel all the way to the bottom. This saves tons of time plus you get the an [awesome] view of this section of the canyon, under the third pitch.

Really awesome! We linked the first two pitches via a LONG sling and it was fine, however tiring. Really really great!

Best 12a in the canyon???? It's a real stunner, that's for sure. Combine the first 2 for the full effect. The "first" pitch is quite awkward I must say, but it has great stone. The arete is amazing, and the headwall was fan-freaking-tastic. Beautiful.

Wet Dream on the Wall of the '90s is the best 12a in the canyon...IMO.

Other possibilities:

Adventure Kayak Trundle (River Wall)
Peer Pressure (Highlander)
Balkan Dirt Diving (Sports Wall)
Power Trip (Anarchy)

Certainly "Wet Dream" and "Not One of Us" are right up there. I also like "Road Rash Roof" and "Idiot Savant", but that is just me.

I think I am starting to miss that place....

Hank, Richard, Monty, those routes are all good!
I also think Hipster is a great entry 12, check it out.
I am starting to miss that canyon, too.

I agree, Wet Dream is mangnifacentasticly awesome! Worst 12a in the canyon, Lock Jaw at the Tetanus Crag.

At the crux roof lip, there is a grapefruit-sized block for the left foot- that is pretty loose. I could wiggle it easily with my fingers. The belayer stands immeditely below this block. It is not necessary to get your feet anywhere near the block. My feet don't get within 3 feet of it. No more hints or I would give it away. I will say that my sequence allowed my roof-averse girlfriend easy passage over the lip.

Surprised that this route gets so many stars. Weird climbing, belay stances that are about 3 feet below huge, relaxing ledges (WTF?), and several pretty weird bolt placements kind of detracted from it. In particular, the bolt before the anchors on the 2nd pitch is super contrived, particularly considering you are looking at breaking your ankles if you come off. My partner summed the route up by saying "it's dead to me'. I agree.