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Penitente - Inner Canyon
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Unsorted Routes:

Not My Cross To Bear 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: D'Antonio and Milligan, 1986
Page Views: 12,178
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 26, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (182)
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Just stem it.

Description 

D'Antonio and associates really scored some classic lines in this little sector of the San Luis Valley. Bullet The Blue Sky forms the edge of a large, left-facing dihedral and Not My Cross chases up the perfect, brilliant dihedral in the corner. A bouldery start gains a good stance that lets you kick into the dihedral. Superb stone, killer strenuous stemming, and good pro add up to a Penitente classic. This route would be a star in just about any corner of the universe; it is an excellent addition.

Protection 

Half a dozen draws and a rope.


Photos of Not My Cross To Bear Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing up the stemming with many classic climbs...
Finishing up the stemming with many classic climbs...
Rock Climbing Photo: Steph making the final moves for her onsight of NM...
Steph making the final moves for her onsight of NM...
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful corner, beautiful canyon.
Beautiful corner, beautiful canyon.
Rock Climbing Photo: A great shot with Megan power-stemming up "No...
A great shot with Megan power-stemming up "No...
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo taken by Jordan Bierma during a very late fa...
Photo taken by Jordan Bierma during a very late fa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Eddie Begoon on Not My Cross To Bear, 2005.
Eddie Begoon on Not My Cross To Bear, 2005.
Rock Climbing Photo: Not My Cross To Bear, 05/21/2005.
BETA PHOTO: Not My Cross To Bear, 05/21/2005.
Rock Climbing Photo: You know you can master the stem when....
You know you can master the stem when....
Rock Climbing Photo: Extreme stemming action.
Extreme stemming action.
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping stance for 1st bolt.
BETA PHOTO: Clipping stance for 1st bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: More wide stemming.
More wide stemming.
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric doing some liebacking on Not My Cross to Bear...
Eric doing some liebacking on Not My Cross to Bear...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cool light on a cool climb.
Cool light on a cool climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: All smiles.
All smiles.
Rock Climbing Photo: STEM!
STEM!
Rock Climbing Photo: Tristan Hechtel flashing Not my Cross to Bear. Pho...
Tristan Hechtel flashing Not my Cross to Bear. Pho...
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron (photo by Stuart Slay).
Aaron (photo by Stuart Slay).
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron (photo by Stuart Slay).
Aaron (photo by Stuart Slay).
Rock Climbing Photo: Johnny D + Cross = a smooth sailing onsight.
Johnny D + Cross = a smooth sailing onsight.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lee Saville.
Lee Saville.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stemming up high on Not My Cross to Bear.
Stemming up high on Not My Cross to Bear.
Rock Climbing Photo: A little higher up.
A little higher up.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tristan starting up.
Tristan starting up.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stemming it out on Not My Cross to Bear....
Stemming it out on Not My Cross to Bear....

Show All 32 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Not My Cross To Bear Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 11, 2015
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 27, 2001

[Definitely] the most spectacular dihedral sport pitch I've ever been on. The clipping stances for the first two bolts aren't great, but keep your head together and it's not bad. The dihedral has to be seen to be believed- it's just so clean and smooth. Penitente at its best if you ask me.
By Bryson Slothower
Jul 8, 2002

Have faith in the stem but don't look to the virgin for much help...
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 1, 2002

Great route - has just enough hands, the only route that I almost let go on because of the burning pain in the calves, and no respite at the top.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 18, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Wow. Spectacular route! Classic stemming.... This dihedral and the arete of Bullet are the most striking features in Penitente! Solid 5.11 the whole way.
By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Classic stem corner on a beautiful wall. A must if in the area.
By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 18, 2006
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Very cool climb. I agree challenging first two clips. Once you find a rhythm stick with it!!!
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

An amazing line! Beautiful dihedral with just barely enough feature for your fingers every now and then. A good workout for the calves.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 24, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Like watching paint dry
)
By invisible ghost
From: Bailey
Apr 24, 2009

Dude! I think you have the speed record for NMCTB!
Actually - I was expecting the sun to set before you got to the anchors, which BTW you didnt clip! No send for you!!!
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 24, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Probably bc I ran out of chalk.
By Noah8000
From: Vail, CO
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I cannot get over this climb! Absolutely Stellar! Made the long drive worth it.

It's sustained. There is really no rests or footholds or handholds. Calfs hurt after this one. Every move is stellar. Best Sport Stem pitch ive done!
By NEH
Dec 23, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This is a fantastic route!!Maybe its the style, but this route seems a bit harder than most of the other 11b's in the canyon.
By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 24, 2010

Have you tried Brown Sugar yet?
By NEH
Dec 26, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I climbed Brown Sugar earlier this fall and really enjoyed the route. The start moves were stout, but then it wasn't too bad to the top. Not My Cross seemed much more sustained all the way to the anchors.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Apr 21, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Lol, that video is hilarious, Darren! That's about how I felt while climbing this thing, you're not alone!
By nate post
From: Silverthorne
Apr 29, 2013

Even if this was the only route I had done in Penitente, it would have been worth the drive just to do it. My first try on it was at the end of a long day with direct sun, and it got the best of me with two falls. I had underestimated it. The next morning I came back and hit it up first thing in the shade and cruised it. WoW! I love this route, it may be the best of its grade that I have done. I think this would be a fun one to try and downclimb.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Mar 27, 2014

I don't give out many 4 star classics...but this one, YES. So, so good. I think 11b...definitely stacked the entire way on the most beautiful dihedral. I was lucky enough to get the onsight (which as a figghhttt!) and will absolutely go back just for this. So good. Do it.
By Lizzzz
Oct 11, 2015

Not a good warmup! We thought this was going to be like a 9 from looking at it... nope... thin, technical, 11a/b dihedral climbing.

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