Not Just another Pretty Face 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Bill Todd, Todd Trautner and Robert Alexander, 11/86 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jan 1, 2005 |
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BETA PHOTO: "Not Just Another Pretty Face".
Photo by Blitzo.
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Description Located roughly in the center of the Feudal Wall, this is the route just left of Crown Jewels (5.9), and could potentially be done as a harder, but more solid alternative to the first pitch to that route.
Scramble up easy ledges to reach a bolt above a narrow ledge about 20' up, then make some reachy moves utilizing a black knob and some edges to reach easy terrain (sparse pro here) above the bolt. Higher, pass some horizontals and enter the crux - a steep seam/crack which offers good protection, although hanging out to place it may be problematic. The climbing is characterized by finger locks in a flared crack as you pull a bulge which gives way to easy but very grainy finishing moves. Large cams are useful in a grainy, flared crack 10' above the flat ledge atop the route.
While not a classic by any means, this route offers some decent climbing with protection that is better than apperances might suggest. One star out of five.
Protection bolt (3/8"), pro to 3.5"
| Comments on Not Just another Pretty Face |
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By Tan Slacks
From: Joshua tree
Mar 26, 2005
| I have to agree with Chris. Although not a classic, there are some classic moves. The bulge is downright fun and the finger crack (IMHO) fell a bit easier than 10c. I can't usually do 10c fingers! |
By Locker
From: Westminster, CO
Mar 27, 2005
| I do remember doing/trying and getting my butt kicked on what I thought was an 5.11a..b..or maybe c? That top section was.........well...........blank... |
By keli
From: San Diego, CA
Jan 26, 2006
| Fun route if you take it to the top. Warning for short folks, the first bolt is very hard to clip and the bulge move is very reachy. |
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