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Not Fade Away AKA The Shining 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John Gault
Page Views: 1,080
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on May 3, 2008
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Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Not Fade Away is a hard gem amongst the backdrop of moderates at the Overlook. With the quality movement and good gear this line would be a classic if it were nestled in somewhere on the Davidson wall at the Forks, not to mention where it stands at the Overlook.

The route essentially starts off a ledge 30 feet up. It is the right most striking dihedral (Jungleland being the left). Begin with big long moves with edges and thin jams (5.11ish) which lead you to a great rest. From here the climbing gets tougher as you move higher, though there are still decent rests before the crux. At the crux you will have to incorporate powerful stemming, tight balance, and if on lead, a calm head, though the gear is good and the air clean. It is more a matter of rubber and leg tension vs. strength.


Location 

Toula, I believe had called this the Jungleland section. It is in between the Trinities to the west and Orangeout section to the east. It is very hard to miss if you are looking for it.


Protection 

Wires: small to medium, loweballs can be nice. Cams: small to .75 and doubles to triples on some...



Comments on Not Fade Away AKA The Shining Add Comment
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By Tamara Hastie
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Jun 5, 2008

fun short route...

By Paul Davidson
Oct 7, 2008

These two corners went by a number of names over the years.
Originally just called The Lines, the right hand side was named The Shining at 11+ A0 (Davidson, Larry Coats, Jim Haisley) and then finally freed by John Gault after working the moves out on a TR.

An easier but rather wild exit on the right side is to bypass the crux by running it out to the right around the corner on a small ramp. We never felt the climb should end up that way so never considered it a real pitch. OTOH, it was a wild lead that way, very exposed and technically challenging just not 12.

The left hand line was done by Grossman and me in 82 when he was up for my wedding. I believe we called it Redrum, 11+ and I think some A0 at the top.

See photo:
mountainproject.com/v/arizona/oak_creek_canyon/the_overlook/>>>

By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 6, 2013

Bring a lot of small gear for an onsight.

By Andy Matthews
Jul 11, 2013

Like Aliens? Or small wireds like RPs? Proud onsight!

By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 11, 2013

I placed 2 lowe balls, 3 offset micro nuts, and allot of cams in the 000-1 c3 range.