Not Fade Away AKA The Shining 5.12-
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | John Gault |
| Submitted By: | JJ Schlick on May 3, 2008 |
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Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>
ACCESS NOTE: Please note that the forest service has restricted climbing for any routes past the area of Red Wagon (just left of the Trinity Cracks) due to tourist safety. Local access groups are working to get this restriction lifted.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Not Fade Away is a hard gem amongst the backdrop of moderates at the overlook. With the quality movement and good gear this line would be a classic if it were nestled in somewhere on the Davidson wall at the Forks, not to mention where it stands at the Overlook.
The route essentially starts off a ledge 30 feet up. It is the right most striking dihedral (Jungleland being the left). Begin with big long moves with edges and thin jams (5.11ish) which lead you to a great rest. From here the climbing gets tougher as you move higher, though there are still decent rests before the crux. At the crux you will have to incorporate powerful stemming, tight balance, and if on lead, a calm head, though the gear is good and the air clean. It is more a matter of rubber and leg tension vs. strength.
Location Toula, I believe had called this the Jungleland section. It is in between the Trinities to the west and Orangeout section to the east. It is very hard to miss if you are looking for it.
Protection Wires: small to medium, loweballs can be nice. Cams: small to .75 and doubles to triples on some...
| Comments on Not Fade Away AKA The Shining |
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By Tamara Hastie
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Jun 5, 2008
| fun short route... |
By Paul Davidson
Oct 7, 2008
| These two corners went by a number of names over the years.
Originally just called The Lines, the right hand side was named The Shining at 11+ A0 (Davidson, Larry Coats, Jim Haisley) and then finally freed by John Gault after working the moves out on a TR.
An easier but rather wild exit on the right side is to bypass the crux by running it out to the right around the corner on a small ramp. We never felt the climb should end up that way so never considered it a real pitch. OTOH, it was a wild lead that way, very exposed and technically challenging just not 12.
The left hand line was done by Grossman and me in 82 when he was up for my wedding. I believe we called it Redrum, 11+ and I think some A0 at the top.
See photo:
mountainproject.com/v/arizona/oak_creek_canyon/the_overlook/>>> |
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