|Park your car off of the main canyon road.|
A bold, exhilarating route up some fairly solid rock, this one may have you screaming "mommy!" Not Bosched Up is the test-piece moderate of Tower Two. Put up around the dawn of heavy, rap-bolting, the FA certainly kept it real. As committing as it is bare, this line requires a solid head and creative gear placements, expect long run outs and marginal to no protection. I don't know where you draw the line between R and X, but a slight breeze my blow this one more towards the latter.
Route finding is also a crux, so here's some direction: Begin about 5-7 feet right of Radiation Babies on a solid, black slab. Start with a long, strenuous, run out up a small dihedral feature, and aim for a thin, shallow crack. Continue up the weakness and break left of the wall's first roof. Climb up a steep face to a small ledge and rest. Continue up the face using pockets, passing a hidden "Hallelujah" pin and work towards the middle of the upper roof. Its here where you'll find the routes best protection, so use em' if you got them! Skirt left across the slab (crux) and gain the route's final thrutch up a broken dihedral to the tower's top. The rock deteriorates the higher you go, but you'll find best climbing and stone if you continue straight up. Building a belay at the top of the tower is not recommended, set a directional and traverse left to the belay of Social Realism.
Multifaceted, you'll probably spend a good amount of time on this line. With difficult route finding and some questionable rock, Not Bosched Up is a very slow lead, bring a patient belayer and plenty of confidence.
Three pins and a single rack up to 4 inches with stoppers. Bring a large selection of long draws, slings and maybe even a few double runners. The protection at the roof is far right of the climbing, so use two runners or a double runners to reduce drag. The protection on this line is minimum at best and hard to read, use your imagination.
Not Bosched Up is found about 20 feet up Tower 2 on the gulley's right side. Its the first swatch of solid, black rock you come too. The route starts in the left-side weakness just below a shallow dihedral/mini roof feature and is about 5 feet left of the start for From Trilobites to Lycra Tights
|Comments on Not Bosched Up
Jul 7, 2013
Way to have a good head! There's something intriguing about that choss.
I wonder how many ascents has this route has even had anyway? 3?
Jul 8, 2013
Ha! we were wondering the same thing? this line is good practice for turning parts of your brain off.
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 8, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R
Add hand sanitizer to the rack. Some of the best pieces at the roof sit right in a large pile of guano. Some of the less than stellar pieces sit in an area that is glazed with bat piss (?).
I think the lead took GRK about 60 minutes. I've never seen him spend so much time digging around for gear and what he ended up finding would have been amusing if it hadn't been so high consequence...
I'm gonna file that one under "not for everyone" even by Hellgate trad standards.