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North Nostril Cave

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Cheat, The 
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North Nostril Cave  


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dan Dewell on Sep 28, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: "Nostril Cave" as seen from the Eastern ...

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Description 

The "Nostril Cave" is a larger cave on the Northwest side of Mt. Baldy on the long stretches of granite ramps that work their way down hill. The cave consists of schist on the bottom portion and granite on the top-out. The climbing in this cave is burly and very friendly on the hands (minus Trogdor dyno). An excellent place to escape the heat during the summer!

Getting There 

The easiest way to find the cave is to walk up the Western trail that branches off from the South Seas to Luthern Camp trail. This is an obvious trail, and makes accessing the Candylands and Ivory Heights easy. Follow the trail until you are a short distance from the base of Mt. Baldy. Cut across a short and shallow "valley" (it's hardly a valley, but a gully), and you will then find the long stretches of granite ramps. Once on these walk toward the Northern tip of baldy and slightly East.

It is also easy to access the "Nostril Cave" from the main trail that ends up near the Half Dome spire on the South side of Mt. Baldy. If you get to the Half Dome spire, walk around the edge of Baldy until you encounter the aforementioned trail, then cut across the small gully onto the ramps. The "Nostril Cave" is uphill and about fifty to one hundred feet from the start of the ramps.

I'll post pictures shortly to make finding this easier.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.6 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Nostril Cave:
The Cheat   V7 7A+ R     Boulder, 10'   
Browse More Classics in North Nostril Cave

Featured Route For North Nostril Cave
Greg took this picture.  My brother, Rob, and  <br />Nathan Renner are spotting.  You can see  <br />from this photo that I didn't use the "hidden"  <br />undercling.  From the "under the roof" crimp  <br />(left hand), I went right to the first roof crimp  <br />then bumped to the second (right hand).  I  <br />heel-hooked out left in a shallow scoop;  <br />moved my left hand to the first roof crimp  <br />then gunned for the top.  This is such a good  <br />route.

The Cheat V7 7A+ SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : North Nostril Cave
"The Cheat" begins on the far right side of the "Nostril Cave" on two pretty decent holds and moves up and right to the lip following somewhat good holds using a few heel hooks, drop-knees, and cross-throughs, as well as a hideous gaston/pinch in the toughest portion and a scarey top-out to boot.See the "Nostril Cave" directions and photos for accessing this particular problem, and look to the beta photo for the top-out location....[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

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By Anonymous Coward
Nov 14, 2003
THIS LITTLE CAVE IS SWEET