|1,722 page views|
|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10- [details]|
|FA: ||Kris Pietryga and James Garrett, 23 November 2007|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||When conditions permit|
|Submitted By: ||James Garrett on Nov 24, 2007|
A short, pumpy warm up climb for the longer routes to the right. The well-protected crux is surmounting the first of two roofs in the middle of the crag.
On the south facing side of the Salt Lake Slips, Nosferatu starts up just to the left of the pine tree 20 feet to the left (west) of Salem's Lot. Given its location, its length, and its pump factor, this fun climb should prove to be popular.
4 bolts protect this short pitch to a two bolt belay anchor on top.
|By The Real Mark Evans|
From: Sandy, UT
May 5, 2008
Short, pumpy, and fun is a great description. There are a few loose holds as you head up the roofs, so pull carefully. But with some traffic, this should clean up a bit. Good addition to the area for sure.
|By John Bradford|
From: Lilongwe, Malawi
Aug 29, 2008
Still cleaning up, but not too bad. I pulled several loose rocks out at the first crux. There are good stances for all the clips.
Sep 8, 2008
the second bolt is located too close to the edge of the roof, resulting in potentially levering the biner's spine to the breaking point if one were to fall there.
The anchors need the chain extended a bit as well, as the current setup is less than desirable.
From: Queen Creek AZ
Oct 16, 2008
Just saw it and climbed it today. Fun and great little addition to the Puritan Area:) I agree on the chains.We'll see if it gets fixed ;)
|By James Garrett|
Nov 13, 2008
I will be happy to adjust the chains at the next opportunity, but I should hope anyone feels more than welcome to lug the chain up themselves and make the desired adjustments...especially if you enjoy TRing and lowering off the chain. "Correcting" or "bettering" belays and top anchors are always fine with me!
|By James Garrett|
May 27, 2009
I went back, enjoyed the climb alot more than before, but despite being armed to the teeth with chain, links, extensions, etc. I just couldn't figure out what the problem (as described above) with the anchor was?? The only conceivable way that the lower bolt could possibly be leveraged would be if it was the only bolt clipped...and who does that at the top anchor of a two bolt belay??
I left it as it was....seemed righteous enough to both me and my partner??
From: Sandy, UT
Aug 9, 2009
I didn't think this was any harder than Witchhunt. Didn't really have an issue with the chains either. There is a fun mantel move at the top if you are in the mood.
Sep 3, 2009
fun route, it had some loose rock, the second and third bolts were very close together, it felt pretty easy for 10b
From: West Valley, UT
Sep 18, 2009
This climb was pretty cool. 5.10b is probably too high, when you compare it to witch hunt, dog pile, or chambered nautilus. Thanks James for putting these wonderful climbs up! It sure makes for an enjoyable time. One day you'll have to show me how to bolt routes. ;)
|By Josh Triplett|
From: Bountiful, UT
Jun 12, 2012
Fun little warm up climb. Holds in all the right places for the two little roof problems. Watch the z-clip between bolts 2&3. I felt they would have been better maybe a little further apart, but great holds to clip. I would say 10a as well.
|By James Logan|
Aug 3, 2012
I honestly felt it was in the 5.9 range. Fun, pumpy but pretty easy. Pretty juggy holds all the way up.
24 hours later- I went back and climbed it again today. It is definately 5.10, 5.10b is probably pretty good. You have to climb on the right. Based on all the chalk, most are cheating off to the left which would be 5.8/5.9 (super juggy).