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a. The Uberfall
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Unsorted Routes:

Nosedive 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ted Church, Krist Raubenheimer, 1956. FFA: Jim McCarthy, 1961
Page Views: 6,530
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (132)
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The early stages of Nosedive. There's pretty much...

Description 

This classic route is a left-facing, then a right-facing corner system capped by a crack, immediately right of Retribution.

P1: The climb starts in a left-facing dihedral and works up to a small roof on the left. Clip a fixed pin and work up the short hand crack. The crux is the bulging finger crack above. The finger locks are bomber, so don't forget to enjoy the exposure. Traverse left to a bolt anchor.

Rap with a single rope.

Protection 

Gear to 2" with extra finger-size cams.


Photos of Nosedive Slideshow Add Photo
In the middle of the layback. BTW, these photos are from 2004.
In the middle of the layback. BTW, these photos ar...
Entering the upper corner. It's about 5.8 or 9 here. The gear to this point is a little dicey, with a couple bad fixed pins and some small nuts. Above, as the climbing gets harder, the gear gets better.
Entering the upper corner. It's about 5.8 or 9 her...
Nosedive on the right, Retribution on the left. No Solution goes up the middle.
BETA PHOTO: Nosedive on the right, Retribution on the left. No...
Starting the crux.
Starting the crux.
Finishing off. This used to be the crux for me, but two things happened: I got better at off-size finger jams, and a piece of rock broke off at the lip, creating a good foothold.
Finishing off. This used to be the crux for me, bu...
Beginning the barn door layack. This is a decent rest. If you're tall enough you can get to this point by straightforward climbing on the right, else it requires a few tricky moves directly up the corner.
Beginning the barn door layack. This is a decent r...
Retribution and Nosedive in the winter
Retribution and Nosedive in the winter

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By Paul Crowder
Mar 9, 2006

Super, super classic. My memory is, per Ivan's comments on his photos, that the face holds on the right, at the start of the crux, are the way to go, followed by a blind move left into the crack. I'm kinda tall, so that may not work for everyone. Super exciting.
By Mike fenice
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 7, 2006

This is a great route that should be on everyone's tick list. Ivan's pictures and route description are spot on. The gear is a bit funky in places but nothing out of the ordinary. The uper crux moves remind me of "Space Invaders".
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 16, 2007

I enjoyed this route much more than Retirbution. I also found it to be substantially harder. I'm 5'7", and I found my reach was about 3" too short to use the face holds out right below the bulge. Climbing the corner directly was by far the hardest section of the route, and harder than the crux of Rertribution.

I was a bit unnerved by the lack of gear below the first roof, but the rest protects well. The moves going over the first roof are great. The splitter-crack-bulge at the top was really fun too. For me this was 'rattly fingers' size, so I wasn't yarding on bomber locks, but I was easily able to lieback. The new foothold created by the broken hold was key (great heel-holk-rockover). .5 Camalots were perfect for this crack.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Aug 12, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I probably have no business commenting on the grade of a classic Gunks route, but just don't expect this to be a gimme 10b. Anywhere else and this route gets some brand of 10+. Nonetheless, this is a stellar route; sustained, technical, powerful, and amazing. As Mono says, the gear before the first roof is a little tricky, though you can get a good sized RP to help your head out (its a good piece). Also, my brother has some pretty big hands (we call him Meat Paw) and he couldn't get any locker finger jams in the crack over the last roof...seemed like a lieback situation until you are established over the roof and you can sink a good hand jam. IMHO, much better than 'Retribution' to the left.
By JSH
Administrator
Aug 13, 2010

That's too bad about Meat Paws there - I get such sinker fingers in there that I worry about falling on them!
By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Apr 9, 2012

Great gear the whole way. You can sew up the crux. I never felt unsafe and I don't like runouts on sketchy gear. Sustained but always a rest in-between moves. Only issue is the zoo that is the uberfall staring up at you while you're climbing......once you isolate your mind from that, it is a pleasure to climb!!
By RyderS
From: Boston, MA
Apr 17, 2014

Great route. I found it more interesting and varied than Retribution. The top crux sequence has fun movement (layback transitioning into straight on jams). The finishing crux crack takes inspirationally bomber gear, too. Getting a nice stance just before the crux can be tricky if you are shorter, though, otherwise those face holds are excellent rests. Also, the start is no give away, either: a bit thin, but a few balancy moves will get you to a sidewalk of a ledge. Past the old pin, the great gear abounds...