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Nosebleed is a variation finish to Arborvitae
. It climbs a steep, nose-shaped flake left of the standard 2nd pitch. The flake is pretty evident from the ground.
Pitch 1 5.10: Do the first pitch of Arborvitae
to a set of chains.
Pitch 2 5.11c: A short, steep crack lies just right of the belay chains, and it leads directly into a hand crack through a bulge. Stretch up to good gear placements in the crack (wire and #0.5 Camalot), and then step back down to the belay. Traverse left to the base of the nose-shaped flake, and jam its overhanging left side to a bolt at its top (5.11-). Options: from here, either stretch left to a jam in a horizontal crack, and then use face holds overhead to move back right into the hand crack through the bulge. Or, climb directly into the hand crack. Both are 5.11c. One more hard move gains a stance at the base of a slab. Head up and right to the obvious steep finger crack, and take that to a belay ledge with a big tree, 5.10 (belay shared with Arborvitae and Great Tree Route).
Poison ivy grows on the hillside at the base of this route. We stacked some rocks to bury an ivy patch; this provides a good spot for the rope bag. A water streak runs down portions of the route -- expect some moisture after rains. In the winter, if there's melting snow on the hillside above the cliff, this route is probably dripping (with ice in the hand crack through the bulge).
It is the same as for Arborvitae
: find the biggest tree on the left side of December Wall (it's about 140 feet off the ground), and begin directly below it at two bolts.
Rappel 140 feet from the tree, or rappel the route (50' from the tree; swing left to the chains, and then 90' to the ground). Your rope will fall onto the rocks stacked at the base of the route but also onto poison ivy, unless you take great care to catch it all as it falls.
If you want to climb the route but don't want to risk having your rope fall into poison ivy, climb an easy third pitch to the top of the wall, and walk off left.
Wires and cams to a #2 Camalot, plus a medium RP for pitch one on Arborvitae. If you can't reach the gear placements up and right of the chains, bring someone taller next time. Or, aid off the bolt to place the gear. As will become apparent once on location, a fall in the early going on the nose flake may send the leader crashing into the belayer (with gear overhead -- it's a safe fall, but the belayer may want to belay from a hanging stance below the ledge to avoid collisions).
By Bernard Gillett
May 13, 2009
I tried to top rope the crack right of the chains directly into the bulging hand crack (thus avoiding the nose flake), and found it rather difficult. It may go, though leading it this way would be challenging because the gear placements take up the only available holds.