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Nose Area

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Dum Dee Dum Dum 
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Nose Area 


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Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009
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James at the belay point first pitch
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Description 

Home of some of the earliest routes established at Looking Glass, the Nose Area is a popular destination because of its namesake route. In addition to the Nose, there are a number of great moderates here, any of which will give you lots of climbing mileage and great exposure.


Getting There 

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail about a half-mile to end at the base of Sundial Crack. The Nose is a short distance to the left on the cliffline trail.


8 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Nose Area:
Sundial Crack   5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 430'   
The Nose   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Peregrine   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   
Sensemilia Sunset   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 465'   
Hyperbola   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 550'   
Dum Dee Dum Dum   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 230'   
Hyperbola Direct Start   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Nose Area

Featured Route For Nose Area
Moonrise on Sundial.  Photo by Michael K.

Sundial Crack 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c  NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area
Although it's not a long sustained splitter crack, this is a really nice route, especially if the Nose is occupied. The crack actually runs for only ~20 ft on the 3rd pitch and is flaring, but protectable. The Lambert/Shull guide rates it 5.8, but I thought it was really mellow for the grade.This description is meant to supplement the Lambert/Shull book. Ratings are from the book.Start: Pretty much where the approach trail meets the rock. Relatively short approach.P1: 5.5 80' Climb up a...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Nose Area Slideshow Add Photo
climbing first pitch of the nose
climbing first pitch of the nose
first pitch 2
first pitch 2
Me and my partner Darren
Me and my partner Darren
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