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Nose Area
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Dum Dee Dum Dum 
Hyperbola 
Hyperbola Direct Start 
Nose, The 
Peregrine 
Sensemilia Sunset 
Southern Crescent 
Sundial Crack 

Nose Area 


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Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009

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climbing first pitch of the nose

Description 

Home of some of the earliest routes established at Looking Glass, the Nose Area is a popular destination because of its namesake route. In addition to the Nose, there are a number of great moderates here, any of which will give you lots of climbing mileage and great exposure.


Getting There 

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail about a half-mile to end at the base of Sundial Crack. The Nose is a short distance to the left on the cliffline trail.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Nose Area:
Sundial Crack   5.8-     Trad, 4 pitches, 430 feet, Grade III   
The Nose   5.8     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III   
Peregrine   5.9     Trad, 4 pitches, 450 feet   
Sensemilia Sunset   5.9+ R     Trad, 4 pitches, 465 feet   
Hyperbola   5.10a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 550 feet   
Dum Dee Dum Dum   5.10c PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 230 feet   
Browse More Classics in Nose Area

Featured Route For Nose Area
Looking down from the top of the finger crack.

Hyperbola Direct Start 5.11a  NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area
The direct start is a good variation to the original if you don't feel like 5.9 R slab climbing. Step up on the ledge next to the tree. Pull onto the face up to the first bolt on pretty good holds. You can sling the tree, a flake, or get a bomber yellow #2 C3 in before the first bolt. Pull onto a creaky flake (feels bad but it will hold) Make some hard moves to clip the 2nb bolt and get to the sloper rail. Delicate climbing up to a little horn which feels like a jug at this point get a goo...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC


Photos of Nose Area Slideshow Add Photo
first pitch 2

first pitch 2

James at the belay point first pitch

James at the belay point first pitch

Me and my partner Darren

Me and my partner Darren