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Norway  


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Location: 60.6732, 9.4043 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 50,268
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Oct 18, 2008  with updates from Kristian Starheim
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View from the top of the Svolvaergeita (The Goat)

Description 

Norway has an incredible variety of climbing, from fjord-side sport crags to polar alpine epics.

The highlight of alpine climbing in the country is an ascent of its "national" mountain, Stetinden. The standard route weighs in at YDS 5.6, while the enticing South Pillar Route tallies in ~5.9.

The Lofoten Islands are a popular climber's destination, and offer everything from hard bouldering to long alpine routes.

Climbing potential exists at almost every turn in Norway, so don't despair if your journey doesn't take you to one of these locales. Drop by the local outdoor sports store and look for a partner and information. Great climbing can be had close to almost every major city, including Bergen & Oslo.
Keep in mind that the weather plays a significant role in Norwegian climbing. It will rain at some time during your stay, if not the whole time. Norwegian climbers take a philosophical view of rain, classifying showers in two types: those wherein you can still climb, and the ones that are too drenching to climb in!
Not all cliffs are "good" for climbing, though in Norway, very little doesn't get climbed regardless. The infamous Troll Wall for example, is a 5000' high chosspile, but it is also one of the most sought-after faces on the planet.

Bouldering:
- Trøndelag: Harbak and Vingsand. Best bouldering in the country.
- Oslo: got good bouldering right of the T
- Bergen: Øygarden & Matre.

Sport:
- Trøndelag: Flatanger and Hell
- West coast: Sogndal, Stryn (Beachen)

Trad/alpine:
- Lofoten: Spectacluar scenery and alpine climbs straight from the shore.
- Romsdal (Åndalsnes) - including classics as the big wall Troll Wall and Romsdalshorn.
- Nissedal: long slab-climbs.

Ice:
- Rjukan: the best known ice climbing area in Norway.
- Oppdal/Sunndal: this area offers both ice cragging and long serious alpine climbs. It has seen a lot of development the last couple of years, where many new alpine climbs have been established.

Mountaineering:
- Hurrungane: the main spot for mountaineering and alpine in Norway.
- Jotunheimen: high altitude, good spring skiing.
- Jostedals glacier area
- Western norway in general: Romsdal, Sunnmøre alps, Nordfjord, Sogn. Big area with plenty plenty of opportunities.
- Lofoten
- Tromsø alps

Getting There 

By air from the New World; by train, ferry, or auto from Europe.
While public transport excels in Norway, the backwaters have very limited schedules. Travel to Stetinden, for instance, is possible via public transport, but if your travel time is limited, consider renting a car.

Climbing Season



Weather station 12.7 miles from here

163 Total Routes

['4 Stars',36],['3 Stars',34],['2 Stars',33],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',19],['5.7',4],['5.8',6],['5.9',6],['5.10',29],['5.11',19],['5.12',1],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Norway:
Gollum   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 330'   Lofoten : Gandalf Wall
Bare Blabaer   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches, 550'   Lofoten : Djupfjord
Forsida   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 450'   Lofoten : Svolvaergeita
Vestpillaren   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 12 pitches, 1300'   Lofoten : Presten
Browse More Classics in Norway

Featured Route For Norway
View of the route from the approach

Sydpillaren (South Pillar) 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Europe : Norway : Stetinden
A classic route well worth its reputation. From a distance it looks inaccessible from where the route twists its way up the large granite slabs on the pillar in the middle of the south wall, but a system of shelves allow approach to the base of the pillar and the start of the route. Two other large shelving systems, the First and the Second Amphi cross the further up.Rockfax has published a free miniguide with excellent approach and descent information, as well as a topo:miniguide....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on Norway Add Comment
Show which comments
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 8, 2012
Flatanger? It would be nice to see information and photos.
By Kristian Starheim
From: Boston, MA
Jul 6, 2014
Essentials:

Bouldering:
- Trøndelag: Harbak and Vingsand. Best bouldering in the country.
- Oslo: got good bouldering right of the T
- Bergen: Øygarden & Matre.

Sport:
- Trøndelag: Flatanger and Hell
- West coast: Sogndal, Stryn (Beachen)

Trad/alpine:
- Lofoten: Spectacluar scenery and alpine climbs straight from the shore.
- Romsdal (Åndalsnes) - including classics as the big wall Troll Wall and Romsdalshorn.
- Nissedal: long slab-climbs.

Ice:
- Rjukan: the best known ice climbing area in Norway.
- Oppdal/Sunndal: this area offers both ice cragging and long serious alpine climbs. It has seen a lot of development the last couple of years, where many new alpine climbs have been established.

Mountaineering:
- Hurrungane: the main spot for mountaineering and alpine in Norway.
- Jotunheimen: high altitude, good spring skiing.
- Jostedals glacier area
- Western norway in general: Romsdal, Sunnmøre alps, Nordfjord, Sogn. Big area with plenty plenty of opportunities.
- Lofoten
- Tromsø alps
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