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Norway 


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Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Oct 18, 2008

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Looking up from Storhylla Ledge

Description 

Norway has an incredible variety of climbing, from fjord-side sport crags to polar alpine epics.
The highlight of alpine climbing in the country is an ascent of its "national" mountain, Stetinden. The standard route weighs in at YDS 5.6, while the enticing South Pillar Route tallies in ~5.9.
The Lofoten Islands are a popular climber's destination, and offer everything from hard bouldering to long alpine routes.
Climbing potential exists at almost every turn in Norway, so don't despair if your journey doesn't take you to one of these locales. Drop by the local outdoor sports store and look for a partner and information. Great climbing can be had close to almost every major city, including Bergen & Oslo.
Keep in mind that the weather plays a significant role in Norwegian climbing. It will rain at some time during your stay, if not the whole time. Norwegian climbers take a philosophical view of rain, classifying showers in two types: those wherein you can still climb, and the ones that are too drenching to climb in!
Not all cliffs are "good" for climbing, though in Norway, very little doesn't get climbed regardless. The infamous Troll Wall for example, is a 5000' high chosspile, but it is also one of the most sought-after faces on the planet.


Getting There 

By air from the New World; by train, ferry, or auto from Europe.
While public transport excels in Norway, the backwaters have very limited schedules. Travel to Stetinden, for instance, is possible via public transport, but if your travel time is limited, consider renting a car.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Norway:
Bare Blabaer   5.8     Trad, 6 pitches, 550 feet, Grade II   Lofoten : Djupfjord
Forsida   5.9     Trad, 5 pitches, 450 feet   Lofoten : Svolvaergeita
Vestpillaren   5.10d     Trad, 12 pitches, 1300 feet, Grade III   Lofoten : Presten
Browse More Classics in Norway

Featured Route For Norway
Gaustaspøkelse

Gaustaspøkelsen WI4  International : Europe : ... : Tipp and Topp
Meaning The Gausta Ghost in Norwegian, this route is a classic that is easily recognized by the ice in a bit of a gully and the frozen tree at the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in International


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 8, 2012

Flatanger? It would be nice to see information and photos.