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Kårstø 
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Marvik 
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Norway 


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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Oct 18, 2008

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Looking up from Storhylla Ledge

Description 

Norway has an incredible variety of climbing, from fjord-side sport crags to polar alpine epics.
The highlight of alpine climbing in the country is an ascent of its "national" mountain, Stetinden. The standard route weighs in at YDS 5.6, while the enticing South Pillar Route tallies in ~5.9.
The Lofoten Islands are a popular climber's destination, and offer everything from hard bouldering to long alpine routes.
Climbing potential exists at almost every turn in Norway, so don't despair if your journey doesn't take you to one of these locales. Drop by the local outdoor sports store and look for a partner and information. Great climbing can be had close to almost every major city, including Bergen & Oslo.
Keep in mind that the weather plays a significant role in Norwegian climbing. It will rain at some time during your stay, if not the whole time. Norwegian climbers take a philosophical view of rain, classifying showers in two types: those wherein you can still climb, and the ones that are too drenching to climb in!
Not all cliffs are "good" for climbing, though in Norway, very little doesn't get climbed regardless. The infamous Troll Wall for example, is a 5000' high chosspile, but it is also one of the most sought-after faces on the planet.


Getting There 

By air from the New World; by train, ferry, or auto from Europe.
While public transport excels in Norway, the backwaters have very limited schedules. Travel to Stetinden, for instance, is possible via public transport, but if your travel time is limited, consider renting a car.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Norway:
Bare Blabaer   5.8     Trad, 6 pitches, 550 feet, Grade II   Lofoten : Djupfjord
Forsida   5.9     Trad, 5 pitches, 450 feet   Lofoten : Svolvaergeita
Vestpillaren   5.10d     Trad, 12 pitches, 1300 feet, Grade III   Lofoten : Presten
Browse More Classics in Norway

Featured Route For Norway
Inside the chimney of Den Sorte Kamin

Den Sorte Kamin (The Black Chimney) 5.4  International : Europe : ... : Gygrestolen
Not the hardest of climbs, but definitely a local classic. Easiest route to the top of Gamla. The route traverses inside of a rather large chimney that cuts all the way through mountain. Follow a few bolts up, with the occasional gear placement....[more]   Browse More Classics in International


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 8, 2012

Flatanger? It would be nice to see information and photos.