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Norway Rock Climbing 


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Location: 60.6732, 9.4043 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 27,580
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Oct 18, 2008  with updates from Kristian Starheim
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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When the sun sets for 2 hours you can get some spe...

Description 

Norway has an incredible variety of climbing, from fjord-side sport crags to polar alpine epics.

The highlight of alpine climbing in the country is an ascent of its "national" mountain, Stetinden. The standard route weighs in at YDS 5.6, while the enticing South Pillar Route tallies in ~5.9.

The Lofoten Islands are a popular climber's destination, and offer everything from hard bouldering to long alpine routes.

Climbing potential exists at almost every turn in Norway, so don't despair if your journey doesn't take you to one of these locales. Drop by the local outdoor sports store and look for a partner and information. Great climbing can be had close to almost every major city, including Bergen & Oslo.
Keep in mind that the weather plays a significant role in Norwegian climbing. It will rain at some time during your stay, if not the whole time. Norwegian climbers take a philosophical view of rain, classifying showers in two types: those wherein you can still climb, and the ones that are too drenching to climb in!
Not all cliffs are "good" for climbing, though in Norway, very little doesn't get climbed regardless. The infamous Troll Wall for example, is a 5000' high chosspile, but it is also one of the most sought-after faces on the planet.

Bouldering:
- Trøndelag: Harbak and Vingsand. Best bouldering in the country.
- Oslo: got good bouldering right of the T
- Bergen: Øygarden & Matre.

Sport:
- Trøndelag: Flatanger and Hell
- West coast: Sogndal, Stryn (Beachen)

Trad/alpine:
- Lofoten: Spectacluar scenery and alpine climbs straight from the shore.
- Romsdal (Åndalsnes) - including classics as the big wall Troll Wall and Romsdalshorn.
- Nissedal: long slab-climbs.

Ice:
- Rjukan: the best known ice climbing area in Norway.
- Oppdal/Sunndal: this area offers both ice cragging and long serious alpine climbs. It has seen a lot of development the last couple of years, where many new alpine climbs have been established.

Mountaineering:
- Hurrungane: the main spot for mountaineering and alpine in Norway.
- Jotunheimen: high altitude, good spring skiing.
- Jostedals glacier area
- Western norway in general: Romsdal, Sunnmøre alps, Nordfjord, Sogn. Big area with plenty plenty of opportunities.
- Lofoten
- Tromsø alps

Getting There 

By air from the New World; by train, ferry, or auto from Europe.
While public transport excels in Norway, the backwaters have very limited schedules. Travel to Stetinden, for instance, is possible via public transport, but if your travel time is limited, consider renting a car.

Climbing Season



Weather station 12.7 miles from here

211 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',43],['3 Stars',50],['2 Stars',51],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',34],['5.7',6],['5.8',10],['5.9',11],['5.10',37],['5.11',24],['5.12',4],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Norway

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Norway:
via lara   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 8 pitches, 900'   Nissedal
Pianohandler Lunds Rute   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 340'   Lofoten : Pianokrakken
Gandalf   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 330'   Lofoten : Gandalf Wall
Gollum   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 330'   Lofoten : Gandalf Wall
Bare Blabaer   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches, 550'   Lofoten : Djupfjord
Forsida   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 450'   Lofoten : Svolvaergeita
mot sola   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 7 pitches, 800'   Nissedal
Vestpillaren   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 12 pitches, 1300'   Lofoten : Presten
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Norway

Featured Route For Norway
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the summit block, following the last p...

Forsida 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Europe : Norway : ... : Svolvaergeita
P1: (5.7, 30m) Start up the well traveled face/crack to the left of the small tree at the base. Climb up and slightly left, eventually coming to steep hand crack through a bulge. Climb up this (or bypass it to the right) and gain a ramp which leads up and left. With good runnering, it is best to continue on and link this pitch with P2 - its an easy and logical link. If you are already battling rope drag, belay here.P2: (5.7, 20m) Continue up the ramp, climbing around a large boulder at its...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Comments on Norway Add Comment
Show which comments
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 8, 2012
Flatanger? It would be nice to see information and photos.
By Kristian Starheim
From: Trondheim, Norway
Jul 6, 2014
Essentials:

Bouldering:
- Trøndelag: Harbak and Vingsand. Best bouldering in the country.
- Oslo: got good bouldering right of the T
- Bergen: Øygarden & Matre.

Sport:
- Trøndelag: Flatanger and Hell
- West coast: Sogndal, Stryn (Beachen)

Trad/alpine:
- Lofoten: Spectacluar scenery and alpine climbs straight from the shore.
- Romsdal (Åndalsnes) - including classics as the big wall Troll Wall and Romsdalshorn.
- Nissedal: long slab-climbs.

Ice:
- Rjukan: the best known ice climbing area in Norway.
- Oppdal/Sunndal: this area offers both ice cragging and long serious alpine climbs. It has seen a lot of development the last couple of years, where many new alpine climbs have been established.

Mountaineering:
- Hurrungane: the main spot for mountaineering and alpine in Norway.
- Jotunheimen: high altitude, good spring skiing.
- Jostedals glacier area
- Western norway in general: Romsdal, Sunnmøre alps, Nordfjord, Sogn. Big area with plenty plenty of opportunities.
- Lofoten
- Tromsø alps
By Custer
From: Bergen, Norway
Dec 24, 2015
Bergen is better known for sport climbing since there are over 50 developed sport crags with grades ranging from 5.8-5.14 on bomber granite with bomber bolts and many crags are right above the ocean.
By eric davenport
Feb 2, 2016
In the description it talks about fjord side crags and I'm imagining stepping out of a boat and onto the rock. Is this realistic? If it is that sounds amazing.
By Ben.Foster
From: West Bend, WI
Mar 31, 2016
I used to live on the southern coast in Norway (Mandal) and the guidebook for just that area is about as thick as a novel. There are so many crags all around, and most of them are bolted as well. World class rock all around for sure.
By David Kozak
Aug 22, 2016
Anyone have a copy of Lofoten Rock by Chris Craggs they'd be willing to sell?

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