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Peak C
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Northwest Ridge T 

Northwest Ridge 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Fulton, Spradley, Greenwell, Perkins, and Parsons, August '48
Season: Summer-Fall
Page Views: 806
Submitted By: Furthermore on Oct 14, 2012

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Peak C on the descent couloir.

Description 

Follow the Powell Peak Trail to the basin below Peak C and Powell. Leave the trail at ~11,500 and head for the Peak C-Powell saddle. Before reaching the lower saddle, head south around a gendarme to the upper/southern Peak C-Powell saddle. The first roped pitch, 5.2, starts up a small gully on the left/east side of the ridge. The first pitch is also right of a deep gully blocked by a chockstones. Climb ~50-70 feet up 5.2 on somewhat questionable rock to a ledge.

From the ledge, head right and climb a short class 4 chimney to another ledge. Traverse left/east on a ledge to the upper part of the deep chockstoned couloir. Climb on class 3 terrain for ~100-200 feet up the gully and look for a large headwall on the left.

Head towards the large headwall and climb to the base of the headwall on friction Class 4 slabs. From the base of the headwall, follow a dihedral up along the headwall. As the dihedral steepens, the climbing becomes 5.2 friction climbing until reaching another ledge.

Once on top of the friction pitches, climb straight up blocky class 4 terrain and finish the blocky terrain with a short 5.4 crux. After reaching a ledge after the 5.4 section, head left and follow the west ridge, class 3, to the summit.

Descend either the west ridge or west couloir which is located south of the summit.

Protection 

A 30m or 50m rope and a small alpine rack with a limited selection of nuts.


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Peak C from the approach.
Peak C from the approach.

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By Ryan Marsters
Aug 20, 2014

FA: Forrest Fulton, John Spradley, Dolores Greenwell, Nancy Perkins, and Ted Parsons, August 3, 1948, via Kramarsic's Mountaineering in the Gore Range.