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 ADVANCED
Mt Thorodin
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Northwest Ridge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,256
Submitted By: Stich on Jul 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: The Nose feature is at the top right of the photo....

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Description 

Find the prominent nose-shaped feature on the left hand skyline of the Second Buttress and follow the ridge down. There are a number of crack systems that go up, but the climbing should stay in the 5.5 range or there abouts. The first pitch we took had a nice crack to the left and good foot holds on easy slab climbing to the right. Each pitch was a full half rope length. Loose rock is common, so be aware.

You'll leave the trees behind and start into a groove system that follows the ridge line. The Nose feature is clearly visible up ahead and presents some interesting choices. Belay just below the right side of the Nose in a good crack system.

One way to pass the Nose is on the right. Climb up a ramp with a 3 inch crack and hop up and left into a V grove series with good pro on either the left wall or in the short dihedral. Stem up and turn the corner to great exposure as the wall drops away to the right. Continue on with 2nd and 3rd class moves on a narrow ridge to a large ledge with great views.

Scramble to the summit ridge roped or unroped, depending on how you feel. Walk off to the left following some cairns. Take care not to start down to far left.

Location 

Second Buttress of Mount Thorodin.

Protection 

Full rack with gear up to #4 Camalot.


Photos of Northwest Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
The Nose from the left. There are also fewer trees on this side of the ridge.
BETA PHOTO: The Nose from the left. There are also fewer trees...
Tracy leading the Nose pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Tracy leading the Nose pitch.

Comments on Northwest Ridge Add Comment
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By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Sep 7, 2008
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I think the hike up was harder than this... and the hike down might have been more fun :)

Most falls will have you decking out on one of many slabs and ledges. That said, it isn't difficult to protect, it is super easy climbing, and very little of it even comes near vertical.

However!!! I did find a variation to throw in towards the end that, for me, saved the entire experience: as you approach the nose-like feature, skirt around a bit to the right. There you find a nice little cove-ish area to belay from. Up the right side of the nose is a steep dihedral that meets up with a horizontal crack parallel to nose's arete. This is only about 20 feet of climbing, but ends with a interesting roof. This line has a good deal of moss on it, but once you've gotten to the roof base there's lots of gear and with a bit of maneuvering, one can pop right over it. Makes for a nice finish and also brings the difficulty level more near its listing (in my opinion).
By J. Fox
From: Black Hawk, CO
Jun 28, 2009

I got my purple C3 Camalot stuck on this route. I'm gonna try and go back to get it, but if anyone is up there and can get it free...well, the beers are on me for its return, or, I guess it's booty. :-(
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jul 19, 2009

The 5.7 rating comes from the Lyons area guidebook, so I kept that in the description. Of course it's easy to miss the 5.7 territory, ha. Skeeter, I doubt anyone else will be up there anytime soon, so your cam will be relatively safe until your return.
By Mike Morin
From: On the Road
Jul 19, 2009

Climbed it on July 1 and didn't see the cam...though given there are many ways one can do the ridge we may have simply chosen a different path than Skeeter.
By J. Fox
From: Black Hawk, CO
Jun 3, 2010

I was way off route to climber's right, in some really lame/chossy/crappy area. I haven't been back. The cam is probably trashed by now. I won't go back for it either.
By J. Fox
From: Black Hawk, CO
Oct 15, 2010

O.K., I want my cam back! Anyone want to go up this route with me so I can try and retrieve it?!?! Pm me!