Northwest Passage  5.11b

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Type:  Sport, 2 pitches Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Tom Armstrong Submitted By:  Ian A. Wauchope on May 16, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

From Ward Smith's Guide: "Now bolted, this route is worth the walk. Start at a big split trunk tree (has since fallen, but still marks the route). The second pitch follows a prominent dihedral that is highly visible from route 25 under certain light conditions.

Pitch One (5.8) 7 bolts to BB. From the fallen tree, angle up and right, then layback up to a good belay ledge.

Pitch Two (5.11b) 8 bolts to LO. Follow the beautiful right angling corner. Lower back to the belay, then rap to the ground.

Pitch Three Option: climb Northern Lights (5.11a). See separate description.

Location 

Start at a big split trunk tree (has since fallen, but still marks the route). A 60M rope will get you down in two raps.

Description 

From Ward Smith's Guide: "Now bolted, this route is worth the walk. Start at a big split trunk tree (has since fallen, but still marks the route). The second pitch follows a prominent dihedral that is highly visible from route 25 under certain light conditions.

Pitch One (5.8) 7 bolts to BB. From the fallen tree, angle up and right, then layback up to a good belay ledge.

Pitch Two (5.11b) 8 bolts to LO. Follow the beautiful right angling corner. Lower back to the belay, then rap to the ground.

Pitch Three Option: climb Northern Lights (5.11a). See separate description.

Protection 

The route is entirely fixed, bring 10-12 draws so you have enough for belays. This route, like many in this area, don't get a lot of traffic, so don't expect a line of chalk to guide the way. Also, on pitch 2 I encountered quite a bit of moss on the sides of crimps and incut holds in the corner. With some cleaning it would probably feel more like 11b. That said, I love the fact that these routes force better route finding and also double checking for solid holds.

Location 

Start at a big split trunk tree (has since fallen, but still marks the route). A 60M rope will get you down in two raps.

Protection 

The route is entirely fixed, bring 10-12 draws so you have enough for belays. This route, like many in this area, don't get a lot of traffic, so don't expect a line of chalk to guide the way. Also, on pitch 2 I encountered quite a bit of moss on the sides of crimps and incut holds in the corner. With some cleaning it would probably feel more like 11b. That said, I love the fact that these routes force better route finding and also double checking for solid holds.