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Middle Teton
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Buckingham (SE) Ridge T 
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Middle Finger, Northwall, Mega Motter  T 
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Northwest Ice Couloir T 
Southwest Couloir T 
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Northwest Ice Couloir 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b AI2-3

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1000', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b AI2-3 [details]
FA: June 16, 1961. Peter Lev and James Greig.
Season: Spring thru fall. Late summer and early fall are best.
Page Views: 5,162
Submitted By: Frosty Weller on Aug 31, 2010

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Keen Butterworth lavishing in late August conditio...

Description 

The Northwest Ice Couloir is a great alpine outing that involves moderate rock, snow and ice climbing in an outrageous setting. It even tops out a literal hex toss distance from the summit of the Middle Teton.

The route gets icier (and better) later in the season.

2-6 pitches. Depending on how you choose to run the pitches, this could go in as little as 2 with a lot of simul-climbing. (We did it in 3 with a big simul in the middle for pitch 2.)

The route apparently has the nickname "Harry's Highway". (Curious as to where that came from if anyone knows.)

Descend the Southwest Couloir via Class 3.

Location 

From the Lower Saddle between the Middle and the Grand hike up toward the north ridge. Two large towers will need to be scrambled around to reach a notch before the main wall of the Middle Teton. Pass the first, Pinocchio Pinnacle, on the west. Pass the second higher one, Bonney’s Pinnacle, on the east. From the notch, climb up and traversing right on moderate loose rock ledges to reach the start of the ice/snow couloir. (Note that the couloir itself drops out below you here for thousands of feet.)

Protection 

Crampons, ice axes, small rock rack and 2-6 screws depending on ice conditions and comfort level. Pickets in snowier conditions may be desired. (We climbed it in late August, lots of ice, used 3 screws.)


Photos of Northwest Ice Couloir Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Keen high on pitch 1.
Keen high on pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Northwest Ice Couloir
Northwest Ice Couloir
Rock Climbing Photo: Northwest Ice Couloir
Northwest Ice Couloir
Rock Climbing Photo: Frosty near the top of the first pitch.
Frosty near the top of the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Northwest Ice Couloir
Northwest Ice Couloir
Rock Climbing Photo: Simul climbing the middle section.
Simul climbing the middle section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Frosty topping out.
Frosty topping out.
Rock Climbing Photo: Northwest Ice Couloir
Northwest Ice Couloir
Rock Climbing Photo: Northwest Ice Couloir
Northwest Ice Couloir
Rock Climbing Photo: Northwest Ice Couloir
Northwest Ice Couloir
Rock Climbing Photo: Northwest Ice Couloir
Northwest Ice Couloir
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of the route
Nearing the top of the route

Comments on Northwest Ice Couloir Add Comment
Show which comments
By RKM
From: Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
Jul 16, 2016

In answer to the route submitter's question about this climb being referred to as 'Harry's Highway', it is because 38 year old Harry Frishman, an Exum Guide, fell (and died) from just a few feet from the top in January, 1981.

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