|Type:||Trad, Aid, 11 pitches, 1200', Grade VI|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3+ PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Tom Frost, Royal Robbins 1961|
|Submitted By:||Eric Foster on Jan 2, 2013|
|Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Northwest Face||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Rob Dillon
Jan 5, 2013
|How 'bout that Chimney of Horrors? Tell me you replaced the rust stain.|
By Eric Foster
From: Nashville, TN
Mar 8, 2015
|Yes we changed everything out on the chimney of horrors. I was glad to lead the harder aid pitches which Erik squeezed his way up that terrible thing. There were some pretty bad anchors there on this climb and we managed to change them out or back them up with one better bolt.|
By Bryan G
Jun 9, 2016
Some loose stuff on pitch 1 and below the Tower of Rubble (obviously). The rest of the climb is solid. The "A3+ expanding" section on pitch 8 is easy - not really expanding and takes bomber camhooks and 00/000 C3's. The "A2 beaks" before that is the crux and pretty hard. Pitch 7 is also difficult, and I took a 40-footer when a beak popped and I zippered some gear under it. Bring a couple offset TCU's, the grey/purple and purp/blue would have been super useful for a couple tricky placements. Narrow camhooks are a must.
Also there's no way this is a Grade VI. I did it solo in 19 hours car-to-car and this was my first A3 route and I was climbing ridiculously slow on the two crux pitches. It took me slightly longer to solo Ten Days After which is considered a Grade V.
Thanks for replacing the hardware on this route, but I was also wondering if you guys added any bolts in the process? Two or three bolts at every belay seems out of character for a Royal Robbins route, and also the location of the anchors seems "modern" in the sense that they're set up to facilitate clean hauling, while back in the days of webbing harnesses they tended to drill their belays at better stances.