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4 or 5th ascent? Based on Rangers. Getting up to ...
|***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
Begin in the obvious chimney at the left side of the NW face, climb up & right to the midway, brushy ledges. From the upper far left end of these, ascend cracks on the left for 3 mixed pitches to Last Chance Ledge (good bivy). At the right end of this ledge, ascend a long aid pitch to a crack system leading to the summit. Descend the south side of the formation ( 4 or 5 raps).
From the top, walk south. You can either use the original descent, which goes down the Southwest corner, (4 or 5 raps). You can also head to the Southeast corner and descend the South Face Diagonal route. If you need to descend back down to Zion canyon, hike east to Hidden Canyon. More raps will be needed here.
John Fleming on the pitch below the big bivy ledge...
This is an old topo drawn back in the 70's. The ge...
Some images from an early ascent. At that time, th...
Pitch off the bivy ledge.