Northwest Corner 5.7 C2+
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.7 C2+ [details] |
| FA: | Mark Powell & Don Wilson - December, 1956 |
| Submitted By: | Osprey on Mar 7, 2010 |
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Taylor starting up the steep second pitch.
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Although the summit had been reached via Tyrolean traverse on November 10th 1940 by DeWitt Allen, Torcom Bedayan, and Robin Hansen, Kat Pinnacle was first climbed from the ground up via the Northwest Corner. Pitch 1) Climb broken cracks to a good stance below a semi rotten aid crack. 5.7 Pitch 2) Ascend the aid crack mostly on fixed gear and belay from a tree. 5.7 C2+ Pitch 3) Move the belay around the summit cap to the right. Climb a short chimney to the top. 5.7 Ratings are old school.
Location From the notch, scramble down until you reach the obvious cracks of pitch one.
Protection Single set to #4 camalot. Include small nuts for the aid.
| Comments on Northwest Corner |
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By Bryan G From: Yosemite Dec 29, 2012
| I think the whole thing has now gone free? There are several fat new bolts on the second pitch which look like they were installed to protect a free variation on the arete. These bolts can be clipped from the aid crack as well, and between those and all the fixed pins I think the second pitch is probably only C1+ now, but I didn't lead it. There's also a handful of new sport climbs that have gone up on Kat Pinnacle and the short cliff on the other side of the notch. They look pretty fun if you can crank 5.12-5.13. |
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