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Kat Pinnacle
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Northwest Corner T 

Northwest Corner 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b C2+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b C2+ [details]
FA: Mark Powell & Don Wilson - December, 1956
Page Views: 408
Submitted By: Osprey on Mar 7, 2010

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Taylor starting up the steep second pitch.

Description 

Although the summit had been reached via Tyrolean traverse on November 10th 1940 by DeWitt Allen, Torcom Bedayan, and Robin Hansen, Kat Pinnacle was first climbed from the ground up via the Northwest Corner.

Pitch 1) Climb broken cracks to a good stance below a semi rotten aid crack. 5.7
Pitch 2) Ascend the aid crack mostly on fixed gear and belay from a tree. 5.7 C2+
Pitch 3) Move the belay around the summit cap to the right. Climb a short chimney to the top. 5.7

Ratings are old school.


Location 

From the notch, scramble down until you reach the obvious cracks of pitch one.


Protection 

Single set to #4 camalot. Include small nuts for the aid.



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By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Dec 29, 2012

I think the whole thing has now gone free? There are several fat new bolts on the second pitch which look like they were installed to protect a free variation on the arete. These bolts can be clipped from the aid crack as well, and between those and all the fixed pins I think the second pitch is probably only C1+ now, but I didn't lead it.

There's also a handful of new sport climbs that have gone up on Kat Pinnacle and the short cliff on the other side of the notch. They look pretty fun if you can crank 5.12-5.13.