Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
8 - Kat Pinnacle
Select Route:
Northwest Corner T 

Northwest Corner 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b C2+

Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b C2+ [details]
FA: Mark Powell & Don Wilson - December, 1956
Page Views: 542
Submitted By: Osprey Overhang on Mar 7, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Taylor starting up the steep second pitch.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Although the summit had been reached via Tyrolean traverse on November 10th 1940 by DeWitt Allen, Torcom Bedayan, and Robin Hansen, Kat Pinnacle was first climbed from the ground up via the Northwest Corner.

Pitch 1) Climb broken cracks to a good stance below a semi rotten aid crack. 5.7
Pitch 2) Ascend the aid crack mostly on fixed gear and belay from a tree. 5.7 C2+
Pitch 3) Move the belay around the summit cap to the right. Climb a short chimney to the top. 5.7

Ratings are old school.


From the notch, scramble down until you reach the obvious cracks of pitch one.


Single set to #4 camalot. Include small nuts for the aid.

Comments on Northwest Corner Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Dec 29, 2012

I think the whole thing has now gone free? There are several fat new bolts on the second pitch which look like they were installed to protect a free variation on the arete. These bolts can be clipped from the aid crack as well, and between those and all the fixed pins I think the second pitch is probably only C1+ now, but I didn't lead it.

There's also a handful of new sport climbs that have gone up on Kat Pinnacle and the short cliff on the other side of the notch. They look pretty fun if you can crank 5.12-5.13.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!