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The Meat Wall
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Cleaver, The 
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Northwest Corner 
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Northwest Corner 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
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Page Views: 721
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 30, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: 1 Step Into A Slim Jim 5.9+
2 U.S. Grade A 5.11c
3 [[1061...

Description 

P1. Easy climbing up ledges and along a crack system to a ledge with a bolted anchor. There are good gear placements all the way up and you can find a spot for just about anything.

P2. Haven't done it yet. It can probably be combined with P1 although rope drag might get to be annoying towards the top.

The belay position is slightly awkward on a slippery slope, from which you really wouldn't want to slide off. We built an anchor upslope a bit and used a long tie-in with the rope.


Location 

The route, as the name implies, is the corner at the right of the Meat Wall. Start near where you reach the top of the ledge system when scrambling to the wall and traverse a few feet right to the first placements. You can lower from the bolted anchors or continue up P2 and walk off.


Protection 

Medium and large nuts and/or small to medium cams, a hangers-and-rings anchor at the top of P1. Just about anything else will also fit somewhere on this route (I placed a bomber #5 camalot just because I could).



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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Mar 31, 2009

Combined both pitches (I always thought it was one pitch), and yes he drag was lame.
I didn't put a long enough sling on one piece and the rope would jam int the crack when I was at the top. The pro is solid wherever you want it.
The steep corner above the bolts is exciting! It looks pretty tough but good holds are on the left wall and you really don't even have to use the crack.
It ends up being a bit anti-climatic. As soon as the exciting part is done...it gets dirty and less fun. You can walk off or rap off Green Monster.

By builttospill
Apr 23, 2009

I wouldn't want to run these two pitches together, given how broken and knobby the climb is. Even with long runners, that would be nightmarish.

I traversed left slightly from the top of pitch 1 (at the belay) to avoid the corner straight above the belay. It looked a bit daunting but I didn't look at it that closely. To the left seemed easier, though it was a bit dirtier and generally rounded. This was a surprisingly fun climb, I thought.

By builttospill
Apr 30, 2009

Yeah, went back and did this route again today for some reason. Climbed the corner above the belay until it no longer made sense and I transitioned to the left side. It really wasn't difficult, and made for a bit more fun climbing.