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One of the least climbed routes here. The first pitch doesn't register on the fun factor scale, but the second pitch is super fun, exposed, great holds and excellent protection. To start, climb past a large pine tree to a ledge. Follow right-facing dihedral and step left to a belay 50 feet. Pitch 2, Follow steep crack in lichened wall. At bulge step left and follow short crack 60 feet. There is a direct finish 10b. Rather than stepping left, finish directly over the bulge at the top of pitch two.
Located on the Northwest Buttress and 100 feet right of Pigs in Space. It is 25 minutes from the trail split.
Bring a set of nuts, small tricams and some TCUs. You might also carry a .75 or #1 cam. Anchors at top.
|Comments on Northwest Conversion
From: Clemson, S.C.
Oct 24, 2011
60m will get you to the ground, but you can't belay your follower from the ground. Instead build a trad anchor near the tree lower down. Also, this can be done one long awesome pitch. Just sling the gear in the right facing dihedral before the ledge extra long, or extend it after you make the move below the ledge.
|By Marlin Thorman|
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 23, 2012
One of my top favorite climbs at Sunset! The first 30 feet to the tree (pitch 1) aren't really much to speak of but the top is awesome with some good jams and exposure! Bring long runners.
Aug 27, 2012
Not sure what went wrong but the "Right Facing" corner seemed unfun so I went straight up over the roofs at the "Right Facing" corner, which was really fun, not 5.9 but great holds and protection. Doing it this way I was able to do it in one pitch and belay the follower from the ground.