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Elephant Head
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Northwest Buttress T 
West-Northwest Face T 

Northwest Buttress 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Bill Buckingham and Art Davidson, 1962.
Season: Summer - early July to mid September
Page Views: 873
Submitted By: Joe Stern on Dec 11, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Northwest Buttress of Elephant Peak.

Description 

The route up the Northwest Buttress is the type of climb where no two parties choose the same path. Kelsey's guidebook reports variations between 5.4 and 5.6. There are a couple enticing 5.8 options near the prow that are worthwhile.

Beware loose rock - wear a helmet!

Location 

The route ascents the obvious fin of rock on the north side of Elephant Peak. Follow this feature for about 6 pitches of 5.4 - 5.8 rock to the huge, flat summit. The South Gully is the descent, which is mostly just steep hiking on talus.

Protection 

Gear for this one is the standard rack for moderate Wind River routes in the summer: set of nuts, set of camming units from fingers to hands, and a few runners. Bring a 60 meter rope for long pitches - there are lots of ledges to choose from. You won't see any bolts out here!


Photos of Northwest Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
An approximate line on the NW Buttress. In August ...
BETA PHOTO: An approximate line on the NW Buttress. In August ...
Somewhere around our 6th pitch.
Somewhere around our 6th pitch.
Colleen McHugh at a cold belay on the NW Buttress ...
Colleen McHugh at a cold belay on the NW Buttress ...
Lindsey Bosworth topping out on the NW Buttress.
Lindsey Bosworth topping out on the NW Buttress.

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