Northwest Books 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Warren Harding and Frank de Saussure, 1954 |
| Season: | Late Spring to Early Fall |
| Submitted By: | Jordan Ramey on Sep 25, 2007 |
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Looking down at the middle belay from the top bela...
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Description This is a great climb for the grade on Lembert Dome. The first pitch is the meat and potatoes of the climb with a fun 5.6 lieback section.
P1: 5.6 (or 5.9 variation). Start up a 3rd class ramp and belay at a thick shrub / small tree (whatever you want to call it). There is a good bolt that protects the face friction to gain the corner / lieback about 15' from the belay shrub. Then follow the lieback up to some broken ledges until you reach another belay shrub. Avoid the steep crack that looks harder than 5.6 (5.9) or charge up it with good pro.
P2: 5.6 or less. Continue up the broken ledges and up a short crack that accepts wider pro. Finish near the lip with a gear anchor wherever is convenient.
Walk off right to gain the upper sloping section of Lembert, then follow it down the backside on the easiest path pack to the parking lot. No real downclimbing required and pretty easy (unless wet).
Location The first route on the Northwest Face of Lembert Dome when approaching from the parking area. Ascends the obvious broken section just right from where the wall turns very steep.
Protection Tree/shrub anchor for belay 1,2, and gear anchor for the top.
Cams to 2.5" (optional #3&4, not really necessary)
set of nuts
long slings
Don sitting on the summit ledges
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BETA PHOTO: NWB Route map
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Tradmeister Mark Landreth on NW Books
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Tristan at the start of pitch 1
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Tristan laughing at the big ledge on pitch two
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Starting up pitch 3 from optional second belay.
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"forgot my climbing shoes"
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walking up the easy approach slabs...
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Pitch 1
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At the top ledge! Amazing view!
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BETA PHOTO: The start of the easy walk up to the first belay s...
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NW Books
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| Comments on Northwest Books |
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By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 25, 2007
rating: 5.6
| This is a good route worth doing if you don't have much time and want to get in a few more pitches. The 5.9 variation (on pitch 1) mentioned is short, well-protected and seemed the logical way to go as I recall. |
By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Apr 7, 2008
rating: 5.6
| A terrific way to zip up Lembert Dome in time for a glorious Tuolumne sunset! |
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Sep 21, 2009
| How hard is the Orange spot variation? Is there any gear? Looks like a better way to finish, but I didn't want to risk it... |
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 14, 2010
| The 5.9 variation is fun and recommended. |
By Angie C
From: Sacramento, Ca
Aug 20, 2012
| I highly recommend the 5.9 variation on the second pitch. I do not think I would have enjoyed this route so much with out it. The views are great.
Regarding the walk off, if you cut right too soon, the third class walk off turns into fourth class, which I found to be unfortunately stressful at the end of a climbing day. |
By Ryan Myers
From: Tempe, Arizona
Nov 11, 2012
| This was my first Harding route. Great time. Do the 5.9 variation. |
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