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BETA PHOTO: Northumberland Crack, showing most of the second a...
If you've done Sunstar and The Roof Wall and want a little more adventure, check out Northumberland Crack. The crack on the second pitch is challenging and exposed. There's some loose rock and lichen, but also some high-quality climbing.
Start about 60' left of the Sunstar chimney. Look for a large block with two trees. Scramble up the block from the right and belay just left of the highest tree.
P1. 5.7, 150'. Climb straight up flakes and cracks aiming for a tree directly above. Watch for loose rock. Pass the tree on the left and climb to a rotten ramp. Traverse left on the ramp to a good belay spot about 30' left of the crack and roof on the second pitch.
P2. 5.9+, 100'. Traverse 30' right on a 3'-wide ledge back towards the crack. Climb up and right to a bolt about 10' below the roof. This is not a good belay spot, so continue on. Climb up to the roof and place a #4 Camalot in the wide crack. You can slide this piece up or place a second #4 Camalot a little higher. Make some strenuous moves to pass the lip of the roof (9+).
The fun isn't over: a few more wide-crack moves get you to a stance where you can finally rest. I belayed here.If you still have a #4 Camalot, you can continue up a flared chimney and belay at a ledge with a tree about 40' higher.
P3. 5.7, 100'. Climb the flared chimney (7; #4 Camalot for pro) to a ledge with a tree. Pass the tree on the left and continue up a steep wall with jugs (6) to the top.
The views from the top are great: Rewritten and The Yellow Spur really stand out.
Descend via the same descent as for Rewritten, The Green Spur, etc. Head north to a notch (follow cairns) and scramble down to the trail.
Standard Eldo rack with extra large cams: two #2, two #3, and two #4 Camalots useful.
BETA PHOTO: Northumberland Crack, second pitch. Traverse righ...
BETA PHOTO: The crux wide crack through the roof. Bring a @POU...
Mike starting up the first pitch. When he gets to...
Mike climbing the flared chimney at the start of o...
The final steep wall at the top of the climb. Gre...
BETA PHOTO: The route climbs the cleft and roof crack on the r...
Crawl across "Thank God" ledge, make a scary step ...
Starting the physical crux, not the mental crux, s...
Another shot of the start of the roof....
Looking down from above the crux.
Near the top of the second pitch (if done as three...
|Comments on Northumberland Crack
|By Michael Amato|
Nov 4, 2005
The first pitch of this climb has as much or more loose rock on it than just about anything I've climbed. But it leads to absolutely stellar climbing above!
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 15, 2006
The line is hard to find and follow for pitch 2 and has lots of choss. But the crux through the roof is really fun. Taking 2 fist+ sized peices will make it easier to protect.
|By jack roberts|
Apr 25, 2007
Did this climb the other day. The moves were actually really fun, challenging, and not too strenuous, but the off-width part has sharp rock and is a bit dirty but well-protected without anything bigger than a #3.5/4 Camalot. The first 200 feet of the climb is about 5.7 with very loose rock that is stable but easily displaced. The upper two pitches are worth the climb. Just don't climb this route in shorts....
|By Jim Amidon|
Apr 3, 2011
Worthy route you won't see anyone else on....
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.9 R
One of the wildest 5.9 cruxes in the canyon! BUT: The second pitch (the 5.9 crux) is quite loose before you get to the wide crack. You might get about three sketchy pieces before the bolt, the rest is crap. And don't expect too much confidence-building clipping that bolt; it's not one of those shiny, beefy things you find in BoCan or Clear Creek. If you're not allergic to double ropes, it could be a good idea; if you pull off any of the loose sharp flakes it could cut your rope. The rock is solid above the crux.
Consider doing The Waiting Room instead of the regular first pitch.