Type: Ice, Snow, Alpine, 9000 ft (2727 m), Grade III
FA: May 30, 1958 by Bruce Gilbert, Dick Wahlstrom, Hans Gmoser, Adolf Bitterlich, and Leon Blumer
Page Views: 2,136 total · 17/month
Shared By: Taylor-B. on Oct 26, 2013
Admins: L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description Suggest change

Charter a ski plane from Ultima Thule Outfitters to drop you off at 7,000ft on the Nabesna Glacier at the base of the mountain. There is a LZ at 9,500ft, but that is cheating! This area is at the head of the largest interior valley glacier on the continent, so be prepared for some weather.

The crux of the route may be getting from 7,500ft to 9,500ft. This section ascends an ice fall with monster crevasses and is exposed to avalanches and serac fall strafing down the 7,000ft north face of Mount Blackburn.
A safe camp can be made on the western edge of the basin at 9,500+ft. You can get cell service from here with a ski pole and some tin foil.

There are two variations to reach 12,500ft; the NW Ridge and the N Ridge. The NW Ridge is more wind scoured and contains a short section of AI 2-3 for a couple hundred feet. The N Ridge is heavily wind loaded with steep snow climbing and many bergshrunds and crevasses to navigate.
There are a few spots to bivy and camp along the way, 12,500ft and 15,000ft are your best options.
The ridge above 12,500 is straight forward with nice exposure.

Protection Suggest change

Expedition Kit, pickets, ice screws and skis.

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