By Ian F.
From Phx
Jun 27, 2009
| The Larry wrote: Ian, you've been climbing 25 years and lead at a 5.8 trad 5.10a sport level. I think you're just jealous of better climbers. Totally gay.
Don't be jealous of my honesty. I could inflate and dream back to the days when things where different and I was onsighting 12a sport, and 10c Trad, in hopes of keeping up with the ego's on this sight, but I have matured and 5.8 trad is all I need to keep me happy. Haven't touched a sport route in years. | 
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By Beached Nuts
From Bermuda bitches
Jun 28, 2009
| Ian F. wrote: Don't be jealous of my honesty. I could inflate and dream back to the days when things where different and I was onsighting 12a sport, and 10c Trad, in hopes of keeping up with the ego's on this sight, but I have matured and 5.8 trad is all I need to keep me happy. Haven't touched a sport route in years.
How the hell can you onsight 12a sport and only manage 10c trad? I mean gear sure, but the difference between the two in skill is like performing a perfect triple jump or falling out of a cab drunk.
I've climbed a lot around the 5.12 level for a while now (can't seem to break into 5.13 so I just do what I know). In many cases, move for move, the sport route is harder. Once you learn how to place gear, the whole sport/trad difference is minor at best.
I guess what I'm saying is that at your reported best, you were a n00b.
BTW, have you been to pride fest yet? I'm proud to live in a city that supports such a thing even though the whole idea freaks me the fuck out. |
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By pfwein
From South Boulder
Jun 28, 2009
| johnL wrote: How the hell can you onsight 12a sport and only manage 10c trad?
That's not out of line with the sport and trad differentials that I've seen. Obviously you're an experienced climber so if you've seen otherwise, must be a YMMV thing.
Of course a lot depends on the gear on the trad route: if it's straightforward and bomber, differential should be smaller, but that's not always the case. |
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By Cota
From Skagway AK
Jun 28, 2009
| pfwein wrote: That's not out of line with the sport and trad differentials that I've seen. Obviously you're an experienced climber so if you've seen otherwise, must be a YMMV thing. Of course a lot depends on the gear on the trad route: if it's straightforward and bomber, differential should be smaller, but that's not always the case.
True, but I agree with John, there should not be that big of a gap. If the homophobe wants to brag about his onsight sport level, he should be ready to catch flack for being a wuss about only climbing 5.10 trad...obviously he is (was) strong enough to climb harder, but I guess his unwillingness to come out of the closet must have held him back somehow in the trad arena. What was this topic about to begin with, oh yes...Sorry your draws got stolen, I have had it happen to me and I learned my lesson. For all you people who don't like them being left up, guess what, you don't own the damn crag either.
P.S. whats YMMV? |
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By pfwein
From South Boulder
Jun 29, 2009
| Cota wrote: True, but I agree with John, there should not be that big of a gap. If the homophobe wants to brag about his onsight sport level, he should be ready to catch flack for being a wuss about only climbing 5.10 trad...obviously he is (was) strong enough to climb harder, but I guess his unwillingness to come out of the closet must have held him back somehow in the trad arena. What was this topic about to begin with, oh yes...Sorry your draws got stolen, I have had it happen to me and I learned my lesson. For all you people who don't like them being left up, guess what, you don't own the damn crag either. P.S. whats YMMV?
Feel free to give Ian a tough time, no skin off my back and looks like he deserves it :)
I'd say with that differential, you're dealing with some combination of (1) someone with much more sport climbing experience than trad climbing and (2) wussiness.
I think YMMV is a pretty widely used Internet acronym (usually not my favorite thing) for "your mileage may vary," i.e., I'm just saying what I've seen, if you have seen or see something else, so it goes.
Also, in some places (e.g., Boulder Canyon) sport ratings tend to be very soft and the trad ratings are right on to stiff, so 10c and 12a are not that far apart! |
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