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By Ryan Howa
From pinson al
Sep 6, 2008
lunch time

wow, i could not have worded that any better Ben.
i think the best part will be limping into work and showing of some sweet ass pick of us rednecks doing some crazy shit that would make most pee there pants. look out utah here we come yyyeeeehhaawww

By Paul Barnes
From Gainesville, Georgia
Sep 7, 2008
I love Tallulah Gorge

This is going to be like a Connecticut Yankee in King Arthur's Court (apologize for the Yankee reference, but it's the best analogy).

Some of you Utah locals Puuleeease take some pics of this pair trying to fit into your climbing scene and post up some pics in our beloved Southern States Forum. I will also pay a nominal fee for an objective trip report of any incriminating redneck bahavior you witness...:)

What are the firearms laws like in Utah anyway ???...kidding...only kidding.

Good Luck Ya'll !!!

By Ben Lyon
From Birmingham, AL
Oct 7, 2008
Post climb snack...<br /><br />If you were wondering, the guy is Strappo (could be my long lost brother according to one of my climbing partners), a famous British climber and madman. <br /><br />The photo was taken in the Yosemite Lodge parking lot in 1982. Russ Walling took the photo. Strappo provided the bread.....

Ryan leaves in three days...I vacate the SouthEast next Thursday.

Thanks to all who gave us info.

Weather is looking great. I've got some new Mythos to break in. I am using "calorie loading" as an excuse to pig out. All is well.

And no, Paul, the .45 stays in the comfy confines of the 4Runner...

By mike mullendore
From columbia, md
Oct 7, 2008
Whitney from the Alabama Hills

Ben Have fun out there.

By tenesmus
Oct 20, 2008

well...

By Ben Lyon
From Birmingham, AL
Oct 20, 2008
Post climb snack...<br /><br />If you were wondering, the guy is Strappo (could be my long lost brother according to one of my climbing partners), a famous British climber and madman. <br /><br />The photo was taken in the Yosemite Lodge parking lot in 1982. Russ Walling took the photo. Strappo provided the bread.....

Well, it went like this:

One of us had the bright idea of blasting The Thumb the day I arrived so we could have a leisurely day to get down to Moab for the sandstone...

I arrived around 2:30 PM on Thursday. Within an hour, we were hiking towards the Thumb. I started off on a formation to the right and lead a 5.8+ish pitch past three bolts on the right edge of a gully, up to a right facing corner and two bolt belay. Ryan took us up the next pitch, 5.7 to a gear belay where we realized we should be about a hundred yards to the climber's left. We fourth classed over to the base of The Standard Thumb so as to make up some time...we swung leads up to two pitches below the Lunch Ledge before getting back off route. The climbing was easy and the position great as we were doing this, so we were happy enough...that is until 175' of gully scrabling and tree slinging. I made a belay and brought Ryan up to do the last pitch to the ledge in the dark.

Ryan on the Standard Thumb...


Ryan lead it in fine style and, in keeping with the general boondogglery, we decided to rap off. The anchors we started off of seemed a bit low in comparison to the top and after 180', sure I had passed the next set of anchors, I rapped onto a slab, slung a tree, looked around and quickly found a set way left of where I am sure we should have been. We did three raps total to the base of The Standard Thumb and bushwhacked straight to the road once we lost the trail. All in all, the temps were good, the climbing was leisurely, and the views great. Although we didn't top out on The Thumb, given the revised itinerary, we were pleased enough. We ate at The Porcupine (dubbed by Ryan as "The Alpine Hooters"), and headed South to Price...

By Ben Lyon
From Birmingham, AL
Oct 20, 2008
Post climb snack...<br /><br />If you were wondering, the guy is Strappo (could be my long lost brother according to one of my climbing partners), a famous British climber and madman. <br /><br />The photo was taken in the Yosemite Lodge parking lot in 1982. Russ Walling took the photo. Strappo provided the bread.....

Friday, we awoke, organized th e Jeep, washed some clothes, drank coffee, then we drove South. We pulled into Arches to do the tourist thing and start off on some straightforward Sandstone. We familiarized ourselves with the canyon, took some photos and picked out a route...Chinese Eyes...I pulled the card.

Stemming like I mean it...damn this sand!


How do you all get used to the gritty, sandy, slippery doodoo? I mean the jams were good, but more than one hold exploded on me. One covered Ryan and our rope in about a gallon of sand.

After this, we drove down to Potash to scope the place and for Ryan to put me on some of the good routes he had done there. I onsighted Seibernetics and El Cracko Diablo...we drove down the rode giving out "Howdy Y'all's" and friendly Southern waves, then headed to Moab for dinner at Eddie McStiff's, a growler full of beer, then down to Castleton to camp...good, easy day.

To be continued.

By Ryan Howa
From pinson al
Oct 20, 2008
lunch time

very nice ben, i wish i had as much time to type as you do.
but all in ll its was a great trip. still didnt get anough to climb, im so hooked


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