By Killis Howard Mar 5, 2008
| Good to see this kind of ---- is getting stepped on without delay. FWIW, there are Nicros holds in Crawdad Canyon through a seam-split roof. Crawdad's not my cuppa, so I just stared in horror the one time I went, but it just goes to show how little limits some place on how they affect what would otherwise be a pristine(-ish) natural setting to enjoy.
Paint a hanger, remove the permatat, start a lawnchair collection, and remember-bring yourself up to the rock, not the rock down to you. -Con Fyoo Shuss |  |
By mikewhite From holliday ut Mar 8, 2008
| I removed all eight holds today along with all of the glue.
All holes were patched and you can't even tell they were ever there.
Good as new. Only five hours of work.
Let me know if it happens agine and I will get right on it.
Mikey |  |
By tenesmus Mar 8, 2008
| 'only 5 hours of work'
nice job Mike. Sounds like a pain in the neck. |  |
By bsmoot Mar 9, 2008
| Thanks Mike, that deserves a nine layer bean dip. |  |
By mikewhite From holliday ut Mar 9, 2008
| Before the monkey After the monkey Before the grinder After the grinder Got power??? Small but still heavy. My arm is still sore. All holes patched.
Thanks for the free climbing holds wanker!! |  |
By S. Gileadi From Salt Lake City Mar 9, 2008
| The monkey kicks ass!
Nice job. |  |
By Healyje Mar 9, 2008
| Now that's my idea of community service. |  |
By Joe A From Moab, Utah Mar 9, 2008
| outed in climbing's finest publication! http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/rb-dm-glued-holds-desecra>>>>>
(i wish someone would've contacted me before using my photo but whatever. just don't tell grayhghost, he'll scold me)
JimG and Wholesome Ben, i regret to inform you that my photoshop skills are not that good. the photo is un-retouched, the boulder is definately re-touched. by who, i don't know. no one around here seems to know who did it, prolly someone hired by the tram owners. those holds have remained on there for a few years, i'm ashamed to admit.
well, since mike white is putting his money where his mouth is, i'll feel like a chump if i don't take care of that other sandstone boulder, especially since it's about a five minute walk from where i live. i don't think the grinder is such a good idea on sandstone but there's a lot of messy glue to deal with. i just don't want to make it look worse. is there some sort of "epoxy thinner" that would break it down?
the boulder is located near the mouth of Kane Springs Canyon, near the abandoned tram ride thing. it's pretty much in the parking lot. i'd be psyched to help clean it up, i just don't really know what to use on the sandstone that wouldn't make it look worse. |  |
By mikewhite From holliday ut Mar 9, 2008
| Joe I would like to help you out with the moab boulder next weekend.
I am shocked this happened in moab. I am even more shocked that nobody cleaned it up.
The damage has been done to the sandstone. There is no good way to get the glue off. Use the grinder veary lightly and you might not go through the varnish. But no matter what you do there will be scars. |  |
By Joe A From Moab, Utah Mar 9, 2008
| my bet is that it was a "climber" that was hired by the tram company to make a "climbing wall". i won't name any names, but i will say that the dude i'm thinking of used to own a climbing shop here back in the day. gluing holds onto a boulder for money would definately be within his ethical parameters. but it's just a hunch.
mike, i can lend some elbow grease to the project but i don't think i have any tools which would be useful. get a hold of me. |  |
By Stymingersfink Mar 9, 2008
| Joe A wrote: is there some sort of "epoxy thinner" that would break it down? ... i'd be psyched to help clean it up, i just don't really know what to use on the sandstone that wouldn't make it look worse.
perhaps a smallish sample of rock representative of the rock needing attention could be picked up from the roadside, taken home and given a treatment of epoxy. Working from the comfort of your own garage (which should be somewhat near the beer refridgerator) would allow you to figure out the best way to clean up the offended rock, without learning directly on it.
Practice and learn with your grinder, perhaps some delicate torch work to soften and melt the epoxy, IDK...
When you're finished and have found an acceptable technique to utilize on the big boulder, you can give your practice rock a proper burial in the Colorado. :) |  |
By Phillip Dobson Mar 9, 2008
| There's an epoxy remover known as "Attack" I've used it for non-climbing purposes and it works well. Might be worth a try. |  |
By mikewhite From holliday ut Mar 9, 2008
| Joe A wrote: mike, i can lend some elbow grease to the project but i don't think i have any tools which would be useful. get a hold of me.
"Have tools,will travel"
I will be driving down friday. You will hear from me soon joe.
Free stuff goood
Lets take out that phucking tram too!!! |  |
By Stymingersfink Mar 9, 2008
| mikewhite wrote: Lets take out that phucking tram too!!! yeah. the only problem then would be... where would you install it? I KNOW you don't have enough room in the back yard for that thing. |  |
By mikewhite From holliday ut Mar 9, 2008
| Stymingersfink wrote: yeah. the only problem then would be... where would you install it? I KNOW you don't have enough room in the back yard for that thing.
If it were me there would be nothing left to install.
Up in smoke.. One big cloud of dust!! |  |
By mikewhite From holliday ut Mar 13, 2008
| Update
Found the new land owner for the moab boulder. I will be speaking to them on monday about the cleanup project. Sounds like the tram has been taken down but there is much more to tear out and restore. |  |
By mikewhite From holliday ut Mar 18, 2008
| I just got the ok from the Nature Conserveancy and the BLM to remove the holds on the moab boulder.
I should have it done in a couple of weeks.
You still in Joe A? |  |
By Zed From Gotham City Mar 18, 2008
| It looks like there are some pretty good natural features on that face. Thanks for cleaning that crap up. Good effort. |  |
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