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Plastic holds bolted on Utah rock?!
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By mikewhite
Feb 28, 2008
  Third bolt on last pitch of cheetah

Ben Folsom wrote:
All you people that do such good work to help keep climbers relations with land owners and government people are great! Thanks for all your hard work and effort. It is because of people like you that make me proud to be part of the climbing community. Your efforts are greatly appreciated by all of us. thanks!



Thanks Ben.

Any time but next time bro.
lol


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By samg
Feb 28, 2008

Ben Folsom wrote:
All you people that do such good work to help keep climbers relations with land owners and government people are great! Thanks for all your hard work and effort. It is because of people like you that make me proud to be part of the climbing community. Your efforts are greatly appreciated by all of us. thanks!


Yes, thanks very much!

best,

Sam


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By mikewhite
Feb 29, 2008
  Third bolt on last pitch of cheetah

I wont be there tomorrow. I have to work and I am still talking to Russ.


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By Lee Jensen
Mar 3, 2008
Top of the second pitch on Touchstone.

Here are pictures of the newest route in Provo Canyon:

View from the trail
View from the trail

The view from the trail. Not very obvious unless you are looking for them. It will be even less obvious when the foliage comes in.

View of the bark path
View of the bark path

Closer view of the wall with the bark visible. Eight holds in all.

Hold with glue
Hold with glue

Very professional.


Lee Jensen


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By mikewhite
Mar 3, 2008
  Third bolt on last pitch of cheetah

Got an e-mail from russ and it sounds like we will have the ok soon.

Man that looks like crap.

Sunday anybody?


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By samg
Mar 4, 2008

Man those are U-G-L-Y!

So how do you think this is going to pan out as far as the city's perception of development of real routes in the canyon goes?


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By mikewhite
Mar 4, 2008
  Third bolt on last pitch of cheetah

I don't think new routes will be an issue as long as people don't glue holds on them.

Their main concern was safety and inexperienced people climbing on it, and it just looks bad.

Russ gave me the permission to remove them and said if we did not then they would.

Anybody got time this weekend?

This land is controlled by Utah county parks and rec.

I will speak to him more about climbers and new routes.


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By Jon Ruland
From Tucson, AZ
Mar 4, 2008
sending Hard Day at the Orifice

the saddest part is that the wall looks climbable without the plastic holds, maybe somewhere in the 5.10 or 5.11 range.


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By samg
Mar 5, 2008

Well, Provo canyon will probably not be the next AF, but there is a lot of rock there of a similar type. So no worries, I think, about this being a potentially ruined route.

Mike, I might be able to make it out there this weekend if you want me to help, I know I've got work but I'll see what I can do...


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By Bill Ballace
From Pullman,WA
Mar 5, 2008

You guys aren't going to fuck with my proj, are you?


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By Bill Ballace
From Pullman,WA
Mar 5, 2008

damned! I was gonna drive out this weekend and send. I totally got the moves dialed. I guess that I'll have to glue some other holds on another wall.


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By Dave Budge
From Trashcanistan
Mar 5, 2008

SLCA is looking for a couple of Utah County volunteers to help remove the offending holds, pending approval of the land manager/owner. Let us know if you are interested. Either post here or PM me or Mike White. Also, as both Mountainworks and the Quarry take their stewardship of Utah County crags seriously, I've asked them to help round up some volunteers. A list may be forming there. Mike will coordinate with the two volunteers.


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By Zappatista
Mar 5, 2008
Book me, officer.

Good to see this kind of ---- is getting stepped on without delay. FWIW, there are Nicros holds in Crawdad Canyon through a seam-split roof. Crawdad's not my cuppa, so I just stared in horror the one time I went, but it just goes to show how little limits some place on how they affect what would otherwise be a pristine(-ish) natural setting to enjoy.

Paint a hanger, remove the permatat, start a lawnchair collection, and remember-bring yourself up to the rock, not the rock down to you. -Con Fyoo Shuss


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By mikewhite
Mar 8, 2008
  Third bolt on last pitch of cheetah

I removed all eight holds today along with all of the glue.

All holes were patched and you can't even tell they were ever there.

Good as new. Only five hours of work.

Let me know if it happens agine and I will get right on it.


Mikey


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By tenesmus
Mar 8, 2008

'only 5 hours of work'

nice job Mike. Sounds like a pain in the neck.


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By bsmoot
Mar 9, 2008
Me in the 70's

Thanks Mike, that deserves a nine layer bean dip.


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By mikewhite
Mar 9, 2008
  Third bolt on last pitch of cheetah

Before the monkey

8 plastic holds bolted and glued in provo canyon utah.
8 plastic holds bolted and glued in provo canyon utah.

After the monkey
--- Invalid image id: 106118617 ---
Before the grinder
--- Invalid image id: 106118631 ---
After the grinder
After grinder
After grinder

Got power???
Small but still heavy.
My arm is still sore.
--- Invalid image id: 106118605 ---
All holes patched.
--- Invalid image id: 106118633 ---


Thanks for the free climbing holds wanker!!


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By samg
Mar 9, 2008

The monkey kicks ass!

Nice job.


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By Healyje
Mar 9, 2008
girl40

Now that's my idea of community service.


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By beerdrinker
Mar 9, 2008
err day i'm slothin'

outed in climbing's finest publication!

www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/rb-dm-glued-holds-desecration

(i wish someone would've contacted me before using my photo but whatever. just don't tell grayhghost, he'll scold me)

JimG and Wholesome Ben, i regret to inform you that my photoshop skills are not that good. the photo is un-retouched, the boulder is definately re-touched. by who, i don't know. no one around here seems to know who did it, prolly someone hired by the tram owners. those holds have remained on there for a few years, i'm ashamed to admit.

well, since mike white is putting his money where his mouth is, i'll feel like a chump if i don't take care of that other sandstone boulder, especially since it's about a five minute walk from where i live. i don't think the grinder is such a good idea on sandstone but there's a lot of messy glue to deal with. i just don't want to make it look worse. is there some sort of "epoxy thinner" that would break it down?

the boulder is located near the mouth of Kane Springs Canyon, near the abandoned tram ride thing. it's pretty much in the parking lot. i'd be psyched to help clean it up, i just don't really know what to use on the sandstone that wouldn't make it look worse.


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By mikewhite
Mar 9, 2008
  Third bolt on last pitch of cheetah

Joe I would like to help you out with the moab boulder next weekend.

I am shocked this happened in moab. I am even more shocked that nobody cleaned it up.

The damage has been done to the sandstone. There is no good way to get the glue off. Use the grinder veary lightly and you might not go through the varnish. But no matter what you do there will be scars.


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By beerdrinker
Mar 9, 2008
err day i'm slothin'

my bet is that it was a "climber" that was hired by the tram company to make a "climbing wall". i won't name any names, but i will say that the dude i'm thinking of used to own a climbing shop here back in the day. gluing holds onto a boulder for money would definately be within his ethical parameters. but it's just a hunch.

mike, i can lend some elbow grease to the project but i don't think i have any tools which would be useful. get a hold of me.


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By Stymingersfink
Mar 9, 2008
Redtail Hawk, circling nest 40' up the tower at Anderson Pass

Joe A wrote:
is there some sort of "epoxy thinner" that would break it down? ... i'd be psyched to help clean it up, i just don't really know what to use on the sandstone that wouldn't make it look worse.



perhaps a smallish sample of rock representative of the rock needing attention could be picked up from the roadside, taken home and given a treatment of epoxy. Working from the comfort of your own garage (which should be somewhat near the beer refridgerator) would allow you to figure out the best way to clean up the offended rock, without learning directly on it.

Practice and learn with your grinder, perhaps some delicate torch work to soften and melt the epoxy, IDK...

When you're finished and have found an acceptable technique to utilize on the big boulder, you can give your practice rock a proper burial in the Colorado. :)


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By Phillip Dobson
Mar 9, 2008

There's an epoxy remover known as "Attack" I've used it for non-climbing purposes and it works well. Might be worth a try.


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By mikewhite
Mar 9, 2008
  Third bolt on last pitch of cheetah

Joe A wrote:
mike, i can lend some elbow grease to the project but i don't think i have any tools which would be useful. get a hold of me.



"Have tools,will travel"

I will be driving down friday. You will hear from me soon joe.




Free stuff goood


Lets take out that phucking tram too!!!


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