I went and looked at the plastic today at lunch. The location is .3 miles up the trail from the intersection of Orem 8th north and University Avenue. As you walk up the canyon you will walk over the bridge next to the old train bridge. Continue on for about .2 miles. Just as the trail bends to the left look a the rock out crop directly off of the trail to the left.

Someone has cleared the foliage at the base and laded down landscaping bark. There are eight holds ranging in height from four to twelve feet. Six of them are coated in what looks likes liquid nails. The holds are not too bright in color, but the glue highlights them. Someone obviously went to a lot of work, but it doesn't make sense why they would do this. Too easy and short for bouldering. Poor location for climbing since there are no bolts for protection and little natural protection.

Getting the holds off shouldn't be too hard. Getting the glue off will be a pain. A ladder will be required to access the top holds.

Picture of the location:

The more I think about this the more I think it might be possible that it was the Provo (or perhaps Orem) park service that put these holds on.

My reasons for thinking so:

1. It is right off the trail with a chipped bark path and landing area.
2. It only goes up 10 feet. Too low to get hurt.
3. The holds are juggy. 5.6 kinda stuff.

This just doesn't sound like a climber. I can't imagine why anyone would go through this trouble unless it was the park service and they are trying to add little recreational stopping points on the trail.

With this said, I don't want to call them in case they didn't do it, because I don't want them to know about it if they don't already. But I also don't want to rip it out if they did do it.

Mike White perhaps you could call them as a representative of the ASCA and confirm that they don't know about it and if they don't, offer that the climbing community would like to volunteer to remove it.

Dispite the crappy rock in Provo Canyon I would hate to see it shutdown for future development because it has amazing potential.

What do you think?

Lee Jensen

I also think Provo Canyon does have great potential. There are a few areas where the rock is not nearly as chossy as in the rest of the canyon.

That is a good point about the park service-- I didn't consider that before. I think it might be a good idea maybe for Mike White to contact them, and if they didn't do it, it would be helpful to explain that it was not the work of climbers (seems obvious that it wasn't). Also it might be helpful in setting a tone for developing the area?

Also I would like to help out this Saturday but I'm probably going to be pretty busy with work. If I can get out of it I'll go.

Upon further thought I think that the most probable answer to this mystery is: Eagle Scout Project.

If this is true then it was probably done with the city's permission and ripping it out is going to cause trouble.

I think we had better contact the city before we do anything. Gileadi is right that if we do this correctly we could actually improve the image of the climbing community.

Anyone want to volunteer to call to the city?

Lee Jensen

Wouldn't this be orem city?
Or is it still provo?

Yes I agree we should contact the land manager and hopefully the person who did it.
Lets not jump the gun here.

On the phone right now!


Update.. I spoke with The HMFIC russ at the utah county parks depatment and he is going up to take a look at it right now.

Orem city is looking into it also.

And yes we need permission first.
And no it was not them. They know nothing about it.

All you people that do such good work to help keep climbers relations with land owners and government people are great! Thanks for all your hard work and effort. It is because of people like you that make me proud to be part of the climbing community. Your efforts are greatly appreciated by all of us. thanks!

yeah, what ben said!!!!

For some reason I cant send the above photo to russ, can anybody help?

Mike,
How are you trying to send it?

I wont be there tomorrow. I have to work and I am still talking to Russ.

Here are pictures of the newest route in Provo Canyon:

Got an e-mail from russ and it sounds like we will have the ok soon.

Man that looks like crap.

Sunday anybody?

Man those are U-G-L-Y!

So how do you think this is going to pan out as far as the city's perception of development of real routes in the canyon goes?

I don't think new routes will be an issue as long as people don't glue holds on them.

Their main concern was safety and inexperienced people climbing on it, and it just looks bad.

Russ gave me the permission to remove them and said if we did not then they would.

Anybody got time this weekend?

This land is controlled by Utah county parks and rec.

I will speak to him more about climbers and new routes.

the saddest part is that the wall looks climbable without the plastic holds, maybe somewhere in the 5.10 or 5.11 range.

Well, Provo canyon will probably not be the next AF, but there is a lot of rock there of a similar type. So no worries, I think, about this being a potentially ruined route.

Mike, I might be able to make it out there this weekend if you want me to help, I know I've got work but I'll see what I can do...

You guys aren't going to fuck with my proj, are you?

damned! I was gonna drive out this weekend and send. I totally got the moves dialed. I guess that I'll have to glue some other holds on another wall.

SLCA is looking for a couple of Utah County volunteers to help remove the offending holds, pending approval of the land manager/owner. Let us know if you are interested. Either post here or PM me or Mike White. Also, as both Mountainworks and the Quarry take their stewardship of Utah County crags seriously, I've asked them to help round up some volunteers. A list may be forming there. Mike will coordinate with the two volunteers.