I was thinking of climbing the Southwest Ridge, London Spire on the 4th, to end up at the top to watch fireworks over the valley. I have never been climbing in this area before, but have driven up the backside to the top. Is it possible/faster to drive to the top and descend down somehow, then climb back up to the car? Or is it better to take the normal long approach in from the bottom? Any help or info would be great thanks!

I had heard someone (?) had put up a modern climb on the London Tower. I have never climbed it, when you do, please share the beta...that has been on my list for ages. Thanks in advance

I'll make sure and get lots of pics and beta. By modern, do you mean bolted belays or something?

I'm pretty sure the sw ridge doesn't have any bolted belays, I hope not anyway.

I remember the route taking the better part of a day from the bottom, probably 8-10 hours car to car or something. It seems like you could walk over from the top, so that would save some time because the approach was maybe 3-4 hours. I'm guessing if you walked from the top it would take an hour or so to get to the route.

Awesome climb! We never saw any bolts, though there was one old blue sling on the descent, but it really doesn't save much of the easy downclimbing. Personally, I recommend going from the bottom. The approach was about 2:15 (to the climb start) and the lower part of the canyon is narrow and very scenic going up a dry (usually) creekbed. If you start from the top, you'll still suffer the worst part of the descent (heinous scree and pebbles over slab). You actually start the climb from a small saddle on the ridge and you'll end up having to hike up to it from the descent gully still. Also, when you top out you'll have to descend from the summit and go down and back up to the ridge where the road is. I'm not sure how long that drive is, but coming from the Ogden area it's hard to imagine saving more then an hour or two. Plus if you do it from the bottom you get that "true" summit feeling! Could be very hot this time of year! I'm curious if any snow stuck around deep in the gully up high.

How about posting the route here for us gumbies who would like to find it? Don't suspect it will ever become too crowded for you Ogden locals! Rating? #of pitches? Highway exit....best canyon approach? Thanks

After talking to monty-z00ma on the phone last night, I agree with him. His memory is much better than mine and he's probably right, just go from the bottom.

JG, it and several other routes on the towers are in the Ogden area climbing guide book but I've loaned my copy to a friend. Maybe I can get some info up when I get it back.

Sounds good, I need to buy that guidebook anyway! Maybe one of you Ogden guys might try to put it on this site as available? Thanks.

I just climbed the ridge two mondays ago. The approach took 2.5 hours and that was moving the whole time. There is water running all the way from the top of the canyon and poison ivy on the banks. there is also some leftover snow at the top of the canyon. We found no bolts on the route, and weren't expecting any. The upper pitches above the Lunch Ledge are kitty litter and a bit sketch. At no point was the climbing difficult but because of the exposure i've given it an sphincter pucker 7 rating(out of 10, 10 being only one oar in class 5 rapids at 54,000cfs.) It took us 12.5 hours car to car. Have fun! As far as getting there from the back, you can drive up from mantua. The road takes a long time to get to the top, maybe an hour, and you'll need 4wd. and high clearance, I don't remember thinking a subaru could make it. I'm not sure how hard it is to bushwhack over to the spire. The road does get you pretty close, within a mile or so. hopefully that helps and isn't too late.

Excited to see some pics and hear the beta! Stop holding out on us.
Thanks for the post

I tried drivin up the backside last weekend and couldn't quite make it to the top yet. The road on the top, west side of willard basin is still covered in way too much snow to drive up. How is the route finding for the route? I can comfortably lead most 5.8's I've tried, but haven't tried any higher on trad lead. The Ogden guidebook has little beta on the route, mostly showing that it follows the ridge but thats it. Also, was the poison ivy very easy to work around? I plan on doing the climb early sunday morning as of now.

Guys, I have just added the southwest ridge of london spire to the site, so hopefully it can help those who would like some beta. Feel free to add your comments to my description.