By steve santora
Nov 3, 2009
| Had a great outing on the Mx crack today. Nov 2, 60 degrees in the sun.
After a couple of laps on the Mexican dog, Mike and I top roped the direct start. Wow, That was really nice, I guess it is a 5-10a or b slab start to the pedistal. Small Crimps, and smears abound. What it needs is one bolt to protect the damn thing. Is any body opposed to that? Just thought I throw that out before..... Im thinking of putting one in..........Let me know everyones thoughts.... | 
FLAG |
By Skyler Penrod
Nov 3, 2009
| If it is the slab I am thinking about a bolt wouldn't offend me. I am more into being safe on things...aka I don't like broken ankles. If you want to be bold just don't clip it. Just my opinion. |
FLAG |
By k. riemondy
From Boulder, Co
Nov 4, 2009
| why not leave it as a top rope? or be bold and lead it as such sans pro?
I'm sure you could climb the slab to the right of the green A on top rope as well. Should we bolt that line as well?
my 2 cents. |
FLAG |
By Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Nov 4, 2009
| This has been climbed on lead without the bolt. Don't put a bolt in there. |
FLAG |
By Allen Sanderson
Nov 4, 2009
| I have climbed the direct and as I remember was able to creatively protect it. As such, leave it for those with a bold imagination. |
FLAG |
By Ben Folsom
From Sandy, Utah
Nov 4, 2009
| This HAS been LED without any fixed protection. No bolt. |
FLAG |
By Trishthedish11
From SLC, Ut
Nov 4, 2009
| Absolutely NO BOLT! Half the fun is figuring out how to protect it and getting past it. |
FLAG |
By Sam Grenlie
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 4, 2009
| Please, leave the drill in the car. Thanks. |
FLAG |
By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 4, 2009
| Sam Grenlie wrote: Please, leave the drill in the car. Thanks.
I'll ditto the above. It's been a known alternate start to Mexican Crack for some time, and, its listed in the Ruckman guide as such.
I really really (really) think it would absolutely change the character of Mexican Crack. No one would do the standard start anymore, which, is part of what makes Mexican Crack both unique and classic.
Maybe take some of your own advice? "Save your rope save the anchors and learn to climb and rapple."
Ha ha.
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC |
FLAG |
By d-know
From electric lady land
Nov 4, 2009
| 15 years of flailing
to climb and never
ever considered chopping
a bolt.
please don't
make me start! |
FLAG |
By samg
Nov 4, 2009
| Yeah, just exercise some common sense here- don't bolt it. |
FLAG |
By Luke Douglas
Nov 4, 2009
| So absurd it has to be a troll.
steve santora wrote: To me it was rediculas to ever bolt that place,,,,,Learn to climb...I've been climbing since 78, yep Im that old and we never had any 12 bolted 5-5's to learn on....All I see these day is people clipping bolts and lowering off good anchors that you can rapple off... Save your rope save the anchors and learn to climb and rapple. |
FLAG |
By steve santora
Nov 4, 2009
| OK,OK,,,,Good input...I agree with Brian It would change the climb and people probably would skip the normal start. So NO BOLT from me. Was just a crazy thought I was enjoying the climbing on such a wonderful fall evening I got carried away.....Its good to know you're all still out there thinking of good ethics and climbing Cheers.....steve |
FLAG |
By tenesmus
Nov 4, 2009
| The cool thing is that this is one way discuss an issue. You see something cool and fun and think, "I'd like to do this but its such a classic area. I wonder about the community standard for this situation?" No one is getting beaten down. Steve asked a simple question and an overwhelming consensus is reached.
I like it. |
FLAG |
By Price
From Sandy, UT
Nov 4, 2009
| No bolt
from one who didn't understand, but now does.
Definitely do not put any bolts on established routes in LCC. |
FLAG |
By Boreas
From Colorado, Utah
Nov 4, 2009
| steve santora wrote: Just thought I throw that out before..... Im thinking of putting one in..........Let me know everyones thoughts....
....... thinking???????
I am excited to see someone actually doing that, and asking for an intelligent opinion from the community.
You must be a transplant to the wasatch....... Thinking seems to be in short supply sometimes lately.
One more vote no on the bolt..... |
FLAG |
By steve santora
Nov 4, 2009
| Not a transplant, learned to climb here in 1978, First climb was Satan's Corner in tennis shoes with one inch webbing for a harness. I still remember how hard that was. The leader took a fall on a nut at the awkward spot on the climb. That was exciting...
Anyway I agree, one of the reasons for the post was to see how it would go, I wasn't sure if I would get any positives as ethics over the years have always been to add no new bolts to exsisting routes unless the original bolts were deemed dangerous. But I also agree it is pretty easy to see how the community feels about anchors belays and route modifications. So I think we should have more of this type of exchange in the future. Enjoy the week good climbing ahead......Cheers |
FLAG |
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