While rapping in Eldo a couple years ago, I saw two climbing parties. One of the parties was still climbing and the other party was finished with the pitch. One of them yelled OFF BELAY and the other party took his leader, while still leading Vertigo OFF BELAY. Total miscommunication. Calmly explaining to these guys what was up was very lucky for all. At least in crowded areas, ya know, where the river is super loud or there are so many folks climbing everywhere, communication is key. However you choose to make it happen, radios, rope tugs, Yoda like Jedi mind skills or whatever. My one cent.

Dude, John, don't listen to these guys. I know how you feel about solitude, and I have the perfect solution for you.

Come bouldering with me in LCC. Sure, I know what you're thinking. "But it's bouldering, and that's all uncool and shit, and when you fall you hit the ground, and that's scary, and anyway boulderers are loud, obnoxious, brash, "sweet brah" screamin, pot smokin, beer drinkin bastards."

Well, all of that is true. But trust me; despite the occasional possee in the Secret Garden, if you come bouldering with me, I can guarantee at least 100 days of climbing a year without seeing anyone but the same 5 or so people. And even then, only occasionally.

Warning though, not only do I smoke, but I smoke a pipe. Way more pungent. I also drink beer and curse loudly. But hey, you could find these secluded spots where nobody climbs, and then spend all your time there without me.

Let me know when you want to go climb. I promise you won't ever hear the words "Off Belay".

Don't know why the original message got taken out; discussing partner communication safety and/or the topic of general noise; both topics are worthy discussion.

That situation Hank brought up still happens a lot; as does the topic that John originally brought up; however maybe the focus on discussing belay commands was a mistake in relation to a wilderness experience.

I hate to see leaders get taken off belay when they don't expect it; you just get a sinking feeling in your gut when you see it happen. But I also like to get out enjoy the backcountry in relative solitude as much as I can.

John,
I really admire the fact that you took time out of your day to PM me
"your a douche"

That made my day.How many people actually do that. Just kids that are 20 I guess. It is funny how you asked for feedback and when you get it you tuck your tail and run. Sinking to the level of childish myspace IM's and insults rather then standing on your own two legs in front of the community. Judging by the fact you removed your OP and the forum title you are in fact are the douche on this one and I am sure you'll catch it in the ass from another climber or tick sooner or later.

People climb outside. People yell. Put them together and you have a popular crag. Suck it up and learn to climb harder so you don't have to be where are the gumbies are. Radios? WTF. This is rock climbing, if you can't hack it I hear knitting is quiet.

Woah, pretty aggressive bunch on MP today...
If you want to haul a radio on your pitch and go all stealth, by all means do so. If the occasional sound in the canyon makes you go apeshit, find a more secluded route. Dogwood will always be crowded but I'm sure Cesar's Palace is quiet. Now if people sitting at the base are overly loud and blow smoke in your face when you're racking up, tell them to kindly STFU or stone them.

I'd hate to trade a bunch of people braying "off belay bro" a couple of times an hour for a horde of tools with bluetooth headsets and radios.
Go practice your rope tugs and be safe.

this is crazy!

we have 3 pages of people arguing about yelling and radios and who's a douche, and how old you have to be to call someone a douche, and i can't get but a couple of replys to my request for boulder area "road to astroman" progression list. i've also asked for a desert tower progression list too.

aren't routes more interesting to discuss than talking down to john?

and john, if you're still out there, i still stand by my comment that i also do not like all the over excessive communication.

come on hardmen, help out a gumbie and let me know what you think:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado__rocky_mountain_re>>>>>

PS. hey, how do i turn the above into a one word link, anyways?

thanks! - S

This thread is great. I just wish the guy who has been climbing for one season and knows everything about climbing communication hadn't run off to the Winds. I could really use some more of his advice for my upcoming trip up the Captain.

--Marc

You will die for sure if you don't bring radios on El Cap. You will also ruin the wilderness experience of everyone on the bus if you are yelling - tread lightly.

That reminds me of a totally unrelated story. I was on top of a route at lisa falls a few years back, belaying a friend of mine up. As he was getting set to climb, we were yelling back and forth the usual shit. Then, I noticed a fairly large group of people (maybe 10) in the parking area across the street and down the road a ways from the lisa falls area. I saw that they were all staring at me, which anyone that climbs in areas that have non-climbers driving through is used to. So I did what I always do, and waved at them. They all waved back. A few minutes later, a couple more people joined them, and they were all talking to each other and pointing, so I continued to wave occasionally.

About 5 minutes later, as they were all still sitting there staring at me, I noticed one of cup their hands to their mouth like they were shouting. I also managed to hear a very faint "AAAARRRREEEE YOOOOOOOUUUUU OOOOOOKAAAAAAAAYYYYY?"

Ahhh, shit. These people were under the impression that I was stuck up on top of this route, and that I needed some rescuing. A very nice gesture, to be sure... but damn, I could imagine how embarassing it was going to be when the SAR guys showed up to find me just rapping down. I tried yelling back that I was alright, but it was pretty obvious they couldn't hear me... so I just decided instead to ignore them from then on. Eventually, they left. Glad I avoided what could've been a REALLY awkward situation.

On topic, I wandered to one of my semi-secluded bouldering areas yesterday. On the way, I passed a chick who was hanging out on a rock in just her underwear and a t-shirt. So, if girls taking their pants off isn't for you, make sure you never take me up on an offer to go bouldering.

It's a good thing that Harding had his Motorola walkie talkies way back when he did the FA on the Captain, otherwise he would have died for sure!

When we can't hear each other we use 2 quick tugs to mean off belay, and 3 means that the follower is on belay. It helps to have this established before hand, and make sure not to tug twice when pulling rope to clip while climbing! If unsure, the second leaves the leader on until all the extra rope is pulled up, then three tugs for sure means on belay. If the second isn't sure if he is on, he can leave himself short clipped to the anchor and move upwards, and see if the rope comes taut. Generally a few solid pulls from above means the belay is on.
I know radios are great, and I'm sure I will use them someday on a large climb. However, they are wicked annoying to other parties, especially the constant beeping and hearing "are you there yet? over." for some reason they just scream, "I am new at this, and need all the tech help I can get!" Besides, what if the batteries fail? Will you then not know what to do?

IN Eldo and other crowded places, we make sure to use each other's names in addition to "Off belay" to avoid confusion with other parties, seems to be very helpful with the wind and river howling.

You know, I was going to post a picture of me climbing something shirtless with a beanie on, preferrably with snow on the ground... but then I realized that I don't HAVE any pictures of me climbing with a beanie on. No wonder I can't send hard!

So instead, here's a picture of me climbing with a camo trucker hat on.

Except that I didn't top that problem out. Maybe I need more beanie-clad spotters. Or maybe the trucker hat was weighing me down.