By Not So Famous Old Dude From Denver, CO Apr 23, 2008
| Agree that yelling is annoying. It is also unnecessary, although I did it for years. However, I have been using a rope tug system for several years now for every style of climbing and it works very well. We use three sharp tugs on the rope, both for "on belay" and "off belay." There is no confusion because of the natural time that elapses during a lead. However, you can always yell if you absolutely have to (such as massive rope drag), so there is no downside to just trying it and seeing for yourself how easy and safe it is to use. I would recommend not using different numbers of tugs, though, as that definitely could create confusion. You want something simple that can't be misconstrued. |  |
By Andrew Gram Administrator From Denver, CO Apr 23, 2008
| big difference between yelling off belay and a three minute conversation.
also, come on, its BCC! if you want to get away from the noise, go to bells canyon, big willow canyon, etc. expecting peace in the cottonwoods unless you hike your ass off to somewhere like the pawn is sort of like expecting a wilderness experience inbounds at alta. |  |
By SAL From broomdigiddy Apr 23, 2008
| S. Gileadi wrote: The beeping crackling sound of radios is much more annoying to my ears then someone yelling "Off belay" to their partner! I mean it's that kind of noise pollution that is nice to get away from when you go the canyons, no? Hell no to the the Sktrrtttzchhhhkkkzzkzk BEEP, that's what I say! Besides, the people that yell too loudly are the same people that are going to crank those radios up full blast.
Good point. Most of us leave the city to escape technology and electronics with annoying static and beeps. How sad to arrive at your destination only to find an assortment of handheld radios chirping louder then the birds and the wind. |  |
By Mark Nelson From Coniferous, CO Apr 23, 2008
| john richards wrote: whats with all the safety issues?
I'll agree with SAL on this, you commented on the belay command to begin with, not a 3 minute conversation that should have taken place at the anchor. |  |
By Tracy Roach From Littleton Apr 23, 2008
| saxfiend wrote: Me too! I'm glad someone else feels that way. Camaraderie is nice even if it's just hearing someone else's distant voice. JL
Me too! Especially when I'm on an alpine route in a storm. Misery loves company??? :-)
As far as radios, I make way too much noise when I carry one. I get into a crack and the thing goes off. I drop it and it goes boom, I say shit, my partner says shit. . .more noise. I find myself yelling into it. Why? I have no idea. They get in my way but I have used them and was thankful to have them on looong pitches that meandered. |  |
By john richards From salt lake city UT Apr 23, 2008
| as long as you use the right radios they dont beep or make annoying noises. As for wanting to know someone else is around thats another topic completely. |  |
By SAL From broomdigiddy Apr 23, 2008
| john richards wrote: as long as you use the right radios they dont beep or make annoying noises. As for wanting to know someone else is around thats another topic completely.
care to share a brand or model that does not cost more then my rack? |  |
By john richards From salt lake city UT Apr 23, 2008
| Motorola SX800R (22 Channels) 2-Way Radio |  |
By Phillip Morris From Flavor Country Apr 23, 2008
| Tracy Roach wrote: It's the loud chatter, smoking, and hanging out that goes on at crags that irritates me and has wrecked my concentration on climbs in the past.
I really can't think of anything better then after a day of cragging, enjoying a smoke in the setting sun and recounting the day's adventure. It warms the cockles of my soul that this pisses you off.
Seriously, I find no use for radios, rope tugs, or yelling. The natural progression of a pitch is pretty easy to follow: The rope slowly inches it way through the belay device, then when you think the leader should just about be at the belay, the rope stops moving for a few moments (leader building the anchor), then it starts racing through the belay plate (leader pulling up the slack). I let a bit more rope run through before I take the climber off belay just to be sure. If I'm not sure, I just run it through the belay plate until there is no more rope. When the rope pulls so tight it feels like my nuts are about to pop, I figure I am on belay. |  |
By john richards From salt lake city UT Apr 23, 2008
| Phillip Morris wrote: I really can't think of anything better then after a day of cragging, enjoying a smoke in the setting sun and recounting the day's adventure. It warms the cockles of my soul that this pisses you off. Seriously, I find no use for radios, rope tugs, or yelling. The natural progression of a pitch is pretty easy to follow: The rope slowly inches it way through the belay device, then when you think the leader should just about be at the belay, the rope stops moving for a few moments (leader building the anchor), then it starts racing through the belay plate (leader pulling up the slack). I let a bit more rope run through before I take the climber off belay just to be sure. If I'm not sure, I just run it through the belay plate until there is no more rope. When the rope pulls so tight it feels like my nuts are about to pop, I figure I am on belay. Im glad it warms your soul when someones pissed, but when your done climbing please enjoy the sun away from the rest of us who dont want to deal with the smoke. Second of all i dont think alot of us want to "assume that we are on belay" or assume that they are off belay for that matter. |  |
By SAL From broomdigiddy Apr 23, 2008
| john richards wrote: Motorola SX800R (22 Channels) 2-Way Radio ONly 22 channels??? what are the rest of the parties going to do in LCC once the que fills up for proper belay transmissions?
I wonder if the cost of this unit is as many digits as the alphanumeric name it has in tact. If so. I will continue to scream rudely, loudly and safe enough so that my partner and anyone with in two pitches of us can hear my call. I'll spend my money on more "saftey" gear instead.
Thanks for reminding me that I climb outside to get away from hair brain ideas such as two way radios and cell phones. I'd love to hear you scream any time though John :-) Cheers SAL |  |
By SAL From broomdigiddy Apr 23, 2008
| john richards wrote: Im glad it warms your soul when someones pissed, but when your done climbing please enjoy the sun away from the rest of us who dont want to deal with the smoke. Second of all i dont think alot of us want to "assume that we are on belay" or assume that they are off belay for that matter.
hey does anyone else think it is rude to smoke outdoors as well as screaming? Maybe those people need to be quarantined to places less attractive such as prison. The nerve of some humans...
John, I really think you need to go check out wind rivers in wyoming the solitude you'll find there will rest your soul long after you leave. Then maybe youll find peace at your local crag with the rest of the out of control climbers out there.
Have fun!. |  |
By john richards From salt lake city UT Apr 23, 2008
| SAL-cool it bro. just annoyed by some climbers. and hate when i have to inhale the same smoke as them |  |
By john richards From salt lake city UT Apr 23, 2008
| SAL- Forum somewhere else. You are not adding to a conversation, you are only interested in arguing with me. If you think i have "hair brained ideas" than find a more itilectualy stimulating conversation for yourself somewhere else. |  |
By Geir Hundal From Tucson, AZ Apr 23, 2008
| Not So Famous Old Dude wrote: I have been using a rope tug system for several years now for every style of climbing and it works very well.
Yeah, I love this system. Especially for slingshot toprope setups. |  |
By john richards From salt lake city UT Apr 23, 2008
| Geir Hundal wrote: Yeah, I love this system. Especially for slingshot toprope setups.
ok so what is the system exactly. because in a perfect world i wouldnt have to use a radio either. |  |
By S. Gileadi From Salt Lake City Apr 23, 2008
| Hmmm... well, I think the sound of radios even if they don't beep or crackle much are still pretty godawful. There's no getting away from the bandlimiting and distortion, and it's right in the frequency range that the human ear is most sensitive to- the same frequency range as a baby crying, so we are hardwired to be sensitive to sounds in that range. IOW, your radio will be annoying, perhaps even more annoying to others than yelling is to you.
Plus, It just reeks of the same ridiculous obsession for gadgetry that some climbers seem to possess, whether it's "technical clothing" (which usually sucks), bringing the full rack to the sport crag, radios, you name it- useless STUFF. Simply not necessary for a lot of us, and we're not going to buy into it.
If you want solitude (which is really what your issue seems to be), there are plenty of fun crags in both Little and Big, not to mention other areas that see few visitors, go there. Yes, you will probably have to hike a few minutes to get to them, but hey, it seems rather selfish to demand that other people act differently for the sake of your own convenience. |  |
By john richards From salt lake city UT Apr 23, 2008
| S. Gileadi wrote: it seems rather selfish to demand that other people act differently for the sake of your own convenience.
your right selfish. Its also selfish to ask people not to pee in our crags? or to have them pick up thier trash? or to have them not ram bolts next to perfect cracks? it has nothing to do with convienience BUD. |  |
By john richards From salt lake city UT Apr 23, 2008
| p.s. S Gileadi- Thanks for the tick suggesstion. i bet it will come in useful soon. |  |
By S. Gileadi From Salt Lake City Apr 23, 2008
| john richards wrote: your right selfish. Its also selfish to ask people not to pee in our crags? or to have them pick up thier trash? or to have them not ram bolts next to perfect cracks? it has nothing to do with convienience BUD.
Fine. Could you please keep your radios turned off when other people are around so as not to annoy? Thanks, we do appreciate it! ;) |  |
By SAL From broomdigiddy Apr 23, 2008
| John, You are right. I will go buy some motorolla xoxoxoxo radios so you can have the canyons to yourself. Please PM me with any where you may be climbing so I can make a point to avoid that area in case the batteries to my radio are not charged.
Happy sending in peace!
ps. what happened to the title of this thread?? |  |
By Jared Workman From Boulder Apr 23, 2008
| Just pm the mods to remove the post if you have so little conviction. Deleting the title and opening post is weak. For those who missed it - this guy hates people that use verbal cues for 'On Belay' and 'Off Belay'.
Maybe we need an 'Unrealistic Expectations' forum for MP. I can start by bitching about all the people on Green Mountain who didn't show up until the snow melted. |  |
By Andrew Gram Administrator From Denver, CO Apr 23, 2008
| just saw that this is your first season leading trad in another post. this explains everything about this thread... |  |
By kirra Apr 24, 2008
| OMG SAL -- Now you've gone and done it... John's headed off into the Winds...!!!!!
Gaads *LOOKOUT CLIMBERS* of Wyoming... better have yer radios ready and Don't YELL or CALL OUT otherwise who knows what could happen to ya'll out there ~ ~ ~ |  |
By tenesmus Apr 24, 2008
| Andrew Gram wrote: just saw that this is your first season leading trad in another post. this explains everything about this thread... no kidding. what a baby. |  |
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