.

That doesn't bother me too much unless it turns into a full on partner meltdown and even that can be funny to listen to. I'm certainly not about to carry radios when I climb(don't really want my partner to fumble for the radio when i say "watch me"), and calling out off belay every half hour or so doesn't seem like a huge imposition.

no need to fumble for a radio. Attached to your chest and left on you dont even need to touch it.

Work out a system of tugs on the rope. Two tugs I'm off; three tugs begin climbing. This has worked well for me several times. Although, I have no problem ever being heard.

I don't really see (or hear) a problem. I'd rather people yell than pull some funky one handed belay maneuver to use the button on the radio.

I think if people relied solely on walky-talkies then we would see many more accidents due to miscommunication. Like when a party that has no experience with rope-signals suddenly finds themselves out of voice/sight with no batteries or a dropped radio.

That said. I own a pair of radios and find them to be very helpful if you know you will be out of yelling range. But please note, I searched long and hard for a pair that does NOT make those obnoxious beeps after every message (i.e. not Motorolla). Look for the hunter's models with "silent operation".

Strangely, I have never brought a walky to a sport climb, but my most dangerous communication mishap was on one. Maybe we should just start installing intercoms at the bolted anchors? (solar powered, of course, since this is Boulder Canyon, I presume).

Rope tugs work great, until you have horrible rope drag and can't feel them. Rope tugs are also to be avoided if you are wondering why the leader is taking so long at the crux. This is where screaming your brains out shines.

I don't mind hearing it as long as it isn't impairing the communication between my partner and I. Even if it is, what am I gonna do about it? Nothing. I feel like when people are yelling "Off Belay" and "Slack", it may be necessary to be loud. They may be around a corner or under a roof and the only way to communicate effectively it to shout. I understand this and don't find it to be disrespectful or disturbing. It's the loud chatter, smoking, barking dogs, and hanging out that goes on at crags that irritates me and has wrecked my concentration on climbs in the past. I have bit my tongue on more than one occasion when I wanted so badly to tell these clueless, loud morons to shut the hell up. Grrr. . .

For what its worth, the Canadian system, which is very good, uses the term "SECURE" when you want to be off belay. They do this so that there is no confusion. I addopted it years ago after a few seasons of climbing in heinous Canadian storms, and it is way better than our silly
"On Belay" and "Off Belay", which are so close to the same you cannot distinguish them unless you are completely aware of the situation in which they were said.

john-

perfect solution for ya: earplugs.

you can take them out to use your radio.

i'm with you john. it is easy to be annoyed at over communication. my partners and i try to focus on as little as needed.

of course, do what is safe first off (funny how i feel that needs to be said to keep people from ranting about safety), but to me, it is kind of like skiing.

when you ski trees alot with another, you get to know how they think, and perhaps you ski alike. knowing where they are goinig to go, where they will rest, etc. - it is nice to have that unspoken communication.

i try to get the same thing on routes. especially at a crowded crag. often, hand signals and eye contact are sufficient.

my buds and i try to keep it to a minimum, avoid discussing things that aren't needed, and try to keep a low profile as possible.

that said, sometimes i'm a loudmouth jerk, and some of my younger partners enjoy a good amount of shit talking on route too.

but yeah, try to minimze.

what if another party is on your same channel in the canyon???
Are you going to yell over and over. CHANGE TO CHANNEL 8 DUMB ASS!!!!
?????? A little more uncalled for then an off belay...
I think the belay calls are just fine.The only people using radios besides SAR are selfish climbers making a point to the rest of us that noise pollution of climbers is uncalled for. Go up to the Wind in WY if you want that silence,Its golden I hear :) :)

I would understand the "noise pollution" if it were people yelling at other parties/buddies on another route or unecessary blabbing but belay calls? that is a little panzy and nit pickey eh?

Seems like its all beginners and the timid who use the radios. They've got those, along with their wall rack and pack stuffed to the gills with extra food, water, jacket, approach shoes and bivi gear. On a 3 pitch route.

The calls of "off belay" don't bother me. I've been to crags where you hear the constant beeping/crackling of radios though. Plus, the radios seem to lead to more idle chatter while leader and follower are at different belays. I have also witnessed the leader arrive at the same ledge I was on, get on the radio, and ask the experienced follower "What do I do? There is a guy here already using the belay marked in supertopo." This despite the fact that you could have build half a dozen anchors on that ledge.

Loud commands don't really bother me. For some reason it comforts me to know someone else is around. However the tug system works great. Two tugs from the leader to say off belay. Leader pulls up rope. Two tugs to say on belay to follower. Then two tugs from follower to say climbing. I always hated that...one tug for this, two tugs for that, and three tugs for whatever, cause your sitting there saying....was that two tugs or three.

I guess the discussion of this can also be more what the passerby hears -- do climbers encroach on others' enjoyment of their outdoor experiences?

Climber safety is more important, but consideration for others to set a good example is also something to ponder. Belay safety is always gonna be a priority in comparison over anything else that might be aesthetically unappealing to a passing hiker, birdwatcher, fisherman, or whatever.

But, if all we do is go out and scream at each other; well that stands to reckon the land mgr is just gonna say we're a bunch of noisy unsanitary ingrates that need to be taken out of the area.

I think it's important for people to communicate. Some people get tense and loud, but climbing can be intense. My partners and I always incorporate eachothers names into the communication so we don't get taken off belay due to another party. We also use "thank you" as a polite acknowledgement of a command heard. Radios are great on big walls.

them walkie-talkies killed my whole family.

whats with all the safety issues? jesus people if you arent coordinated enough to work out a system of using a radio please god dont be placing gear and climbing. Sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.

And calling us who use radios selfish is ignorant.

yelling in extreme times or when something is urgent would be fine. standing on a belay ledge and having a three minute conversation screamin about " what a fucking hard placement the last cam was" like i have heard multiple times in big cottonwood canyon is uncalled for. i dont expect anyone to yell into a walkie talkie if they are about to fall i'm not an idiot.

The beeping crackling sound of radios is much more annoying to my ears then someone yelling "Off belay" to their partner!

I mean it's that kind of noise pollution that is nice to get away from when you go the canyons, no?

Hell no to the the Sktrrtttzchhhhkkkzzkzk BEEP, that's what I say!

Besides, the people that yell too loudly are the same people that are going to crank those radios up full blast.