So the Supertaco book says "most parties use the four bolt stations and five 50m ropes to fix to ground." My question is: are there generally communal fixed ropes up to the Heart Ledges? We're thinking about climbing the route late this month or early next.

Thanks in advance for any beta.

--Marc

I think it depends on the time. The one time I saw these fixed ropes they were really manky looking statics. I did see them up close and personal because they were in my way when I was free climbing.

There are sometimes fixed lines down from heart ledges. Sometimes manky, sometimes better. Ask on supertopo, but be aware that the fixed lines aren't supposed to be left there for any long period of time, so they tend to disappear randomly.

I've always seen lines there. They are unofficially and sporadically maintained by whoever has the inclination to spare a rope to the cause. They have never been removed by the park, that I have heard of. There is a 5.8 base route called Little John Left or somesuch that the last 30-40 feet of the fix lines will cross over. Above that, the closest route to the lines is the Jolly Roger. Free Blast is another 4-6 routes to the right.

Climb Free Blast with 2 ropes. While you are rapping the fix lines, if you see one you don't like, leave your rope there and pick it up on your way back up with the bags. Only a few paranoid gumbies will bring 5-6 ropes with them on Free Blast and fix all the way down. Heart to Mammoth is often not fixed, and doesn't need to be for a Salathe trip - but you'll need 2 ropes to rap from Mammoth down to Heart.

Yep, Little John Left 5.8. Its a right facing dihedral with a fist crack where the fixed ropes cross it. Freeblast starts waaay to the right of this route. The fixed ropes and Heart Ledges will be really obvious from the base.

Like Jed said. Every time I have been to Yosemite there were fixed lines to Heart Ledge, even if they were left over from the previous season. Never heard of the park service stripping the lines, either.

Check local beta while doing the parking lot hang and/or the El Cap Lieback (laying in the Meadows, scoping the route.)Determine "freshness" of the lines and fire the route. Good luck, Marc.

Yah, some are good, some not so good. The good part is that when you climb the Freeblast (unless you are planning on pre-hauling to Heart), then you get to check the condition of the ropes on the way down, since many times there are a couple strung next to each other on the same rap. Then on the way back up to haul you know which ones are the good ones to jug on.

There were nice thick static lines all the way to Mammoth Terraces in June 2006. We jugged these and hauled on our own static to Heart. The next day we climbed Freeblast with rock shoes and water, and had the pleasure of having all our nice cushy bivy gear, food, liquer, etc. waiting for us. It made for a nice way to start the route at pitch 1 and go all the way to pitch 35 without coming back down.