I want some input on this route. How is it, where is the last place to bail, are there bolted anchors, and anything else interesting.

Not entirely helpful, but I saw this a while back when a friend was talking about doing it:
http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/info/yosemite/watkins.>>>>>

He never got a chance to hit it up, but I'll ask if he has a topo or any info.

There was a discussion about it on supertopo.com not that long ago, but I don't have the link for it right now. If you search the forums or post up you're get plenty of responses.

Does this route get alot of sun?

Dude...
It's a good thing you're doing your homework. A route infamous for baking the first ascentionists. Track down the article about the first ascent, written by Robbins or Pratt I think. I think Bridwell and Long suffered similar difficulties when putting up a route of their own. Not a face for the middle of summer.

Having said that, it's supposed to be a nice route with lots of good hard free climbing. Given the approach though, I wouldn't bother trying it unless your gonna commit to it. The question about how high you can bail from suggests you have your doubts. I don't know how many walls you have under your belt, but if you're relatively green, you probably want to find something with an easier approach and descent. If your in it for the adventure, the whole package of the harsh approach/descent, etc., then I think you've found your route.

It gets ALOT of sun!! We underestimated our water supply and,
if it wasn't for the strom that came in the second day we would have been in a world of hurt!! (we only had a liter each for the second day)!! Bailing seems hard after about halfway (I'll have to check the book for specifics) because there is alot traversing.
The first pitches are intersting. The super taco TOPO does not adequately describe the first couple pitches.
It looks as if you can get to the penji spots in one pitch but, we ended up running like a 300++ft pitch to get to the first set of bolts!! Then you penji WAAAAY the hell over to the right to an itty bitty ledge just big enough to NOT put weight on the jangus anchor that you're about to penji the rest of the way on. . .
It is an AMAZING route!! The route finding is interesting (to say the least) There were times when I was getting downright pissed off because I couldn't figure out where to go!! The approach itself is not
too terrible but finding the start to the "scrambles" which take you to the (HUGE) ledge at the first pitch is kinda tough.
The descent is A Beeeotch if you get caught in a white out with no compass (us). Otherwize it's straight forward. I think the book says head north and a bit west but mostly north via cross country travel, untill you intersect the (I forgot the name) tral. . .
This is pretty accurate. You will be bushwacking and manzanitta hovering along the way!! It's a long ass hike off that thing!!
I think about 7+ miles with ALOT of steep switchback once you get to the trail.
Don't get caught in the SUN without enough water. That is THE biggest reccomendation I have for you!! In fact OVER estimate your water needs. It gets absolutely unbearably HOT on the South face of that thing! We Actually had to STOP climbing at Sheridan Watkins and rig our bivys over head for shade utill the sun went behind the face of the mountain!! I really thought for a minute we may have HOSED ourselves bad!

Sorry for the long post. If you want more specific beta I'll have to go through my notes and get it to you but I'm at work right now.

Have fun!
Rich

P.s. There is alot of really good free climbing on that thing!!

THey won't help much but HERE are some pics. . .

I asked about the sum for two reasons... Super topo says, "Because of the long approach and north-facing orientation". It was the north-facing orientation that got me. The route is the SOUTH face but they said north-facing orientation. We are going up in early may so the sun is a good thing. Do you think that 1 gallon a day per-person is enough in early may? We are going to do some other routes before this one. We just want a big route, with sun, that we can sleep on. If you have suggestions for other routes the fill these req., give some ideas.

It depends on how hard you climb and how much wall/aid experience you have, which you haven't specified.

BTW, the sun is nice but the Valley won't be that chilly, at least during the day, just bring rain gear since the weather can be unsettled that time of year. I had to bail from 5 pitches up Mescalito once when a ranger vehicle drove by with a loudspeaker announcing a winter storm warning. Sure enough, the following day the wall got blasted.

You specified a route you can sleep on, but that's pretty much any wall.

One of the best ways to pick a wall is to show up and check the conditions and talk to folks in Camp 4. It's kind of the old school version of what everyone essentially does on line now.

Good two day walls:
Column: South Face, the Prow.
West Face Leaning Tower (usually in the sun all afternoon; not sure about exposure in May).

Longer:
Lurking Fear
The Nose
Salathe
If you're a good free climber you can do the West Face (Captain) in a day or even cruise it in two days at 5.10 A0.

I've done Touchstone twice and some smaller things in Zion. We are going to get up on Spaceshot in a week and then do another big route in Zion. We have 14 days in Yosemite. We want to get up on some smaller routes at the first of the week. Then get up on a larger route. My friend said to do Half Dome before getting on larger routes on El Cap. Half Dome gets a lot of shade so Mt. Watkins seems like a good route to do instead. It depends on the area as far as how hard I can climb. I can free in the mid to high ten range but it is kinda early in the year so the engine really hasn't gotten started.

I haven't done Watkins....but if you guys are gearing up for the Captain then I would say do something on the Column or Leaning tower then just go for it. In May you could blow your good weather window doing a "Warmup" wall like Watkins.

If you just want to have a big adventure then ignore the above advice.

Justin,

I second Kevin's recommendation to do the Leaning Tower or Column first. The SF of Watkins is a big step up from there and it's like doing Spaceshot several times in a row. To do Watkins reasonably quickly you will need to be very proficient at .10c/d - .11a cracks of different sizes, otherwise you will be aiding a lot. The ratings are "old school" Yosemite, so don't expect anything soft for the grade. The route does go free, except for 10 or so moves at .12 something. (or maybe it goes all free now?) We did it free up to the lower/mid .11 area and spent a long day and a half on the actual wall. You can also climb the whole deal at 5.9,C2 if that is how you want to approach it - I would allow three days + approach etc. if you are not a super fast aid guy.

Be sure to take multiple pieces of larger pro - like several each of #2,3 and 4 Camalots. (I am guessing on the number and sizes as we used rigid stem Friends back when I did it) You will find that you need them up higher.

Last, the SF is not a "warmup" route for El Cap, in my opinion. You have a much longer approach, descent and lots of hard free climbing unless you aid it all. The trade routes on the Captain such as the Nose, Salathe and Lurking Fear are far less serious undertakings.

Whatever you do, have a good time and climb safely!

Thanks for all the advice, so I have 14 days... what should I climb?
I want to sleep overnight. I don't mind if I have to aid but I can climb in the ten range. I don't care how big it is but I think I should get on some 10 to 20 pitch routes before I try to tackle the nose. Should I try to go late in May? Is the weather in early my unpredictable?

Dude,
You've been given lots of good options. Just pick something. You'll be in the Valley. It's hard to go wrong.